The bearings get sequentially smaller toward the firewall. Since removing the #5 is pretty difficult with the engine and transmission in the vehicle, I was encouraged to leave the original in place. So I started with #4.

It's important to line up the hole in the bearing with the oil passage in the block. I assume they're all the same as mine, located around the 8 o'clock position in the bore. To make sure the orientation is correct, I indexed the rotation of each bearing in the #1 position and marked the 12 o'clock position with a sharpie.

After marking the top of each bearing with a marker, I fit the bearing on the tool, I applied some assembly lube, and carefully inserted it. Keeping the mark visible and in the correct position, I held the nylon centering cone up against the block while simultaneously applying pressure on the rod. Then I grabbed my trusty 4 lb. hammer and gave a few taps to get started. Having 3 hands would be helpful. Once the bearing was started, I withdrew the tool a bit to check my alignment with the oil passage.

Working in small cycles or 4 or 5 healthy taps, I continued to drive the bearing back until it looked about right- more or less centered on the oil passage. Once done, remove the tool and repeat the process on the next bearing forward. It was a little tedious, but pretty easy.

 

got to give credit where credit is due, changing cam bearing with engine still in place thumb up

 

Why are the lifters still in place? If you are changing the cam bearings I assume that you are installing a new cam. If you are installing a new cam you need to install new lifters. Using old lifers on a new cam will cause premature wear on the cam.

 

Assuming OP did just that.

 

This guy is awesome. Changing cam bearings in the car. Badass.

 

Must be that Colorado air.....
that's flat rate techniques right there.

 

Logistics really. My engine stand is currently occupied with a 345 IH V8 for my old Scout. And I was really hoping to knock this out in under a week. With some assurance from the guys at JC's British that it could be done this way, I went for it.

I also understand the logic of a new cam and lifters in this situation, but I'm an on-call pilot, so I have lots of down time. Money on the other hand... well I'm married, so you know where that goes. Chances are in 10 thousand miles I'll be back in to do head gaskets anyway. But the way the Disco will get driven moving forward, that may well be another three years.

I figure even if the cam's a little beat after 107K miles, it'll still run a LOT better now since that valve closes!

 

the only problem with that train of thought is there is no reason to drop the oil pan and remove the front cover to do head gaskets.

But there is; to replace the cam and lifters, so you will be doing the whole job over for nothing.

invite less guests to you're wedding and spend the $ on a cam & lifters,oil pump & timing chain so you don't have to go in there again. jmho