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P38’s back in the day used to eat front rotors pretty good. Stop n go traffic and hard stops will in fact warp a rotor. I personally roll forward after a hard stop to move the rotor to a cooler part of the rotor.
An old timer told me the #1 factor to a warped rotor was during a hard stop & then keeping the rotor/pad in the same spot vs rolling forward & moving the hot spot out from between the pads. Not sure if it holds true, but I’ve driven a lot of vehicles driven by younger women & the front rotors were completely trashed & whenever you applied the brakes it vibrated badly.
Lol thought it was just me. I never come to a full stop after heavy braking, always leave enough room to keep inching forward and distribute the heat
An old timer told me the #1 factor to a warped rotor was during a hard stop & then keeping the rotor/pad in the same spot vs rolling forward & moving the hot spot out from between the pads. Not sure if it holds true, but I’ve driven a lot of vehicles driven by younger women & the front rotors were completely trashed & whenever you applied the brakes it vibrated badly.
This.
See it all the time. I work on a lot of NYC cars. Every single SUV has this, big pad mark on the rotor. can always tell if its going to vibrate at speed.
Also, if you get the rotors cut, (who still cuts rotors), you need to deglaze the pads as well.
Not sure if this is alright but i'm just trying to keep the forum less cluttered. I'm also having an issue with the radio and a/c, the accent light wont light up so I can see what to press at night. Is there a bulb in there that I can change?
Could be a bad shuttle valve switch, bad internal connection inside the WABCO Unit, that Option B would fix for next to nothing, or a wheel sensor/hub. Any higher end scan tool should read LR ABS codes.
I ended up buying an icarsoft reader to read the ABS codes and this is what I'm getting
1) Pump failure 3 (pump sticking)
2) Rear Right Outlet Valve open circuit
3)Front Left outlet valve short to internal supply
4)Rear Right inlet valve short to internal supply
5)Rear right outlet valve short to internal supply
6) Front left sensor signal erratic
7) Shuttle valve switch electrical failure
I have cleared all the codes and the downhill decent and TC warning lights have turned off but the ABS warning light wont turn off after clearing the internal codes or the diagnostic codes. Which of these codes are important and how do I get rid of the ABS warning light?
This.
See it all the time. I work on a lot of NYC cars. Every single SUV has this, big pad mark on the rotor. can always tell if its going to vibrate at speed.
Also, if you get the rotors cut, (who still cuts rotors), you need to deglaze the pads as well.
I still cut rotors. I also still see warped discs.
