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Corrected radius arms

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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 11:45 AM
  #31  
Jeff Blake's Avatar
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From: Lake Tahoe
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Thanks. I'll go with the rear arms too. I've heard good things about the Adrenalin arms, and had a patchy experience with RTE, so I'll give the adrenalin's a go. Plus they can put the SuperPro's in for me as I don't have a press anymore (I'm between places)
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 11:50 AM
  #32  
whowa004's Avatar
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Fair enough. I wish we could just do castor corrected bushings like the FJ80 crowd...
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 04:18 PM
  #33  
Boostle's Avatar
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At what point do you need castor corrected arms?

I completed a 3 inch lift and my truck drives straight as an arrow at 80 mph. When I hit and pot holes the truck doesn't seem too unsettled at all.

What pros would there be in installing castor corrected arms front and rear?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 04:49 PM
  #34  
whowa004's Avatar
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As you lift the truck higher and higher the axles start to suck in closer to the center of the vehicle (shrinking wheelbase, for a 3" lift it's fairly minimal) and rotating the axles. Castor corrected arms that are correctly built will add length to each as well as fix the rotation, meaning in theory they should be custom made to ensure you get exactly what matches your vehicle. Then you start getting into depending on the amount of travel and suspension set up the rotated axle could be binding or stressing the spring increasing the odds of it "popping" out (would have to be a huge lift imo) vs just them falling out if not retained and coned (a more linear motion would ease the re-capture of a dislocated spring).
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 07:31 PM
  #35  
Boostle's Avatar
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Originally Posted by whowa004
As you lift the truck higher and higher the axles start to suck in closer to the center of the vehicle (shrinking wheelbase, for a 3" lift it's fairly minimal) and rotating the axles. Castor corrected arms that are correctly built will add length to each as well as fix the rotation, meaning in theory they should be custom made to ensure you get exactly what matches your vehicle. Then you start getting into depending on the amount of travel and suspension set up the rotated axle could be binding or stressing the spring increasing the odds of it "popping" out (would have to be a huge lift imo) vs just them falling out if not retained and coned (a more linear motion would ease the re-capture of a dislocated spring).
Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. One thing I did notice was that it was really difficult getting the front struts to recenter in the spring upon reinstall. I'm guessing bc the geometry was off too from the lift.
 
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