could it be clogged like a radiator?? could it cause the engine to run hotter?? and what that canister hanging behind the grill across from the electric fan.. I cant find its description in the Rave.. only a pic

one thousand thank yous

 

Oil cooler is fitted on some D2, and above a certain VIN it was not. So in theory it is not needed, but all the D1s had it (passenger side of radiator). I happen to like oil coolers.

Can they be obstructed? Yes, did a D1 radiator swap, cranked it up, and started checking for leaks. In a few minutes came back to the dash.... and oil light had not gone out. Oil cooler was plugged up, and that is what killed the donor vehicle.

Most likely, if plugged up, your oil sludged engine will die of lubrication starvation rather than overheating like with a leaky head gasket. The overheated bearings do get hotter, but the size of metal involved is much smaller than say the heads, and after some noise, these parts fuse (melt) together, and engine is siezed.

If the oil cooler fins are blocked with leaves and mud, from wading (wallowing in the muck) - the air flow to main radiator will be impacted and that can cause overheat, same with AC condenser. The three "radiators in a row" all need clean fins (no pressure washer, too delicate) to work right.

See attached - if the cylinder you speak of is #6, that is part of the AC system, and don't tinker with it unless you know how to and are equipped to work on the AC.

The RAVE is a large and ponderous volume, not easily read in one evening.

Back to your overheating - is your temp gauge going above 9:00? If you have a scanner that can read live data or an Ultra Gauge, you can see engine temp in digital form, and detect rise in temp before gauge moves. So if you test one thing, and it still gets to 219F, why wait until it gets to 235? Testing for overheat by waiting for "way 2 hot" light to come on will cook the engine, if your first few guesses are not on the money.

 

I forgot to include "im actually waitng for a temp guage via mail as we speak.. The guage in the truck after warm up stays at 9:00 on the button.. heres what concerns me.. when It sat at the mechanics for 2 weeks for that steering pump debocle he said (sounding frustrated) "your truck is overheating and I dont know why.. and trust me that temp guage is not working correctly" I could tell he had a disdain for rovers from prior conversations.. the other thing is my neighbor (mechanic for 10 years with zero rover experience) said he didnt like that the electric fan was kicking on after about 15min of driving or idling and not cycling off.. I told him that the trucks notoriuosly run hotter than most others.. in the interim we change coolant temp sensor, tstat, fan clutch and did a flush(all for under a 100 bucks!!).. we kinda did a half assed flush on just the radiator when we had tstat off.. anyway next chance I get im gonna get that grill off and look for debri like you stated.. as far as that link for the "ac drier" once the weather starts to break over here I gotta start looking into the system(no cold air).. so I guess I should just sit tight and wait for temp guage to get here.. I have other cars to use and this has pretty much become my hobby.. Thanks a million Buzz.. I had a feeling you had the answers but didnt want to direct my question at you to make you feel obligated.. if youre ever in Staten Island.. DRINKS ON ME

 

Where could you buy parts for stat, sensor, fan clutch for under a $100- that's a deal. But you have a D2, so the gauge is driven by the ECU. The ECU says display 9:00 for a wide range of temps. The scanner (advanced code reader) can get the actual digital temp the ECU sees, and display that. The electric fan pops on at 212F, and sitting at idle should not do that in cold climate, but in warm place it would (that's why they have the fan). The fan turns off at 202F. The thermostat starts to open at 180, and is full open at 204F. You would expect partial open. If full open, cooling system has no "extra reserve". It opens slowly, like a variable speed drill, not on/off like the home heating thermostat. Radiatiors can be full of gunk, and not allow enough cooling. This will show up as lower part of radiator being a lot cooler than the top section. The coolant is applied top to bottom, in the side tank, and flows across thru tubes. When bottom tubes are gunked up, flow is all through the upper ones, at that is where the heat is. Can be bad enouugh that you are getting half the cooling you should, or less. And if the cool spot is high enough, the air passing that spot is not heated up, that same air then hits the fan clutch, and if the clutch is not warmed up beyond 175 degrees on the face of it it will stay coupled at the gas saving 20% power range, rather than increasing coupling to the engine saving 70 - 80% range.

 

the items and prices.. tstat $20 on sale AB.. temp coolant sensor $32 AB as well and the fan clutch with blades 39.97 with shipping LOL.. I posted a pic on another link asking if it was ok to roll the dice here.. nobody responded.. the thing let out a "roar" as you stated in one of your posts and has a lot more lag after warmup.. I guess with coolant I broke the 100 mark.. oh well.. heres a link and pic of the fan and clutch..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250959093827...84.m1497.l2649

 

Seems like a deal. It should roar start up, then quiet down. When warmed up, engine off, spin it by jhand and release, should stop in 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn, should not "free wheel".

 

its funny you mention that.. this fan and clutch roars on start up and pretty much likes to roar after warmup as well?? do these things "break in"?? its definitley blowing A LOT better then the original.. as far as it spinning after warmup this new one get barley an 1/8 of a turn.. to where the original was doing what you stated "1/4-3/4 " I just changed it because it was cheap and to appease my neighbor who has been helping me free of charge and felt the orig wasnt laggin enough..

 

Well, the preowned fan clutch is most likely about to lock up. It does not reduce power, and roars all the time, mpg will suffer, water pump bearing wear will suffer, and in the event of a total lock up plus with a little help from your right leadfoot, the fan may spin so fast it breaks up, taking out the radiator and a good dent in the hood. So don't toss the first one, because you have not fixed the problem yet if it is still over heating.

 

its not preowned Buzz??.. but it might as well be, being made in china and for that cheap.. Im gonna keep a close eye on it.. Im holding onto every part I change .. thanks again Buzz

Item specifics

Condition: New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller's listing for full details. See all condition definitions- opens in a new window or tab... Read moreabout the condition
Warranty: Yes

 

You can buy a Hayden at an auto parts store in the 50 range, no fan, write up in the tech section. But main point is that is not what is causing overheat. A fan clutch could also be made "heavy duty" so it is designed to be engaged most of the time.