Hey Drowssap, the stud came to mind before, I had the same fear of the coolant crawling up the theads and into the chamber.

Spike, I actually decided against trying to remove the liner. I am afraid that if i remove it, it will be loose, and then I'll have a huge liner problem.

SDinsDS, Teflon and loose cap reservoir, not a bad idea I've been in similar situations before, and have figured how to permanently fix them. I honestly think that the locktite, or jb weld would hold as 15psi is nothing, but this car is going to be my "vacation" car, as in long trips and don't want to chance it to have myself and family stranded on some road.

Savannah Buzz, great advice on the heavy duty alternatives!! I actually had great success with a product in the past that I got from a tractor repair shop. I can't remember the name, but this thing was as hard as concrete when dry, and had a resistance of over 1200 degrees. I would use it, but i don't think I could drill trough it as it would likely crack. In terms of the welding, I took a look at it, and I really don't think it would be possible from up top, I would have to take the block out, get the pistons out, get the sleeve out (Which is not something i would be comfortable with), etc. Doing it from the top would just put a bigger hole in there unfortunately.

Rearden Steel, I think I need to buy you a beer. I couldn't believe my eyes when i saw that. I'm going to give it a shot. THe only thing is that it would take me some time to get it, but I did some research and Harbor Freight carries a simmilar rod. I'm sure the quality in that link is far superior, but the Harbor freight rod should be plenty enough. The only thing I am weary of is that it seems to have a low melting point; I wonder if the engine could get hot enough to melt it, or even deform it? Unlikely as I don't think the engine gets that hot, exhaust yes, but the block with water circulating?....I don't think so. What do you think?

THanks for all the great advice. What a great forum!!

 

I would doubt the engine would get hot enough to remelt the material but I couldn't guarantee it......

There is a temperature gradient radiating out from the cylinder sleeve/exhaust ports going to the water jackets. The closer the area you want to repair to the water jacket the better.......

Let us know if you proceed and take pictures.............

Good luck.

 

/ trying really hard from making a comment about Rearden Steel suggesting which metal mending epoxy to use.

// I personally have always looked up to the character of Ragnar Danneskjöld.

 

Yeah......almost seems like a conflict of interest....

Big Ragnar fan myself..........but there is Dagney to consider......

Sorry about the thread hijack James..........a little book/character humor.....

 

The aluminum sticks did not work well. Maybe if it was on a flat surface and did not require filling. Being that I am trying to block up a hole, it is damn impossible to get the aluminum sticks to adhere. The other problem is that it re-melts everytime heat is introduced, thus deforming it. I tried.....I'm going to pull the engine tomorrow and tig weld from the inside.