Cruise control not working
#21
09-09-2018 | 02:12 PM
#22
09-09-2018 | 04:21 PM
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Mudding
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 133
Likes: 9
#24
09-10-2018 | 06:33 AM
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 231
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From: Kentucky
#25
09-10-2018 | 09:43 AM
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Mudding
Joined: Oct 2017
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Likes: 9
Alright so the actuator seems to function fine. I can pull suction on it, and it stays as long as I can hold it.
Plugged in the Nanocom again and I’m still showing the Brake as On, and Cruise as Disabled. I’ve got some sort of electrical issue here I believe, so time to start chasing impedance in the brake system I suppose. Unfortunately I’m going away for work for a few weeks tomorrow and won’t have the Rover with me.
Plugged in the Nanocom again and I’m still showing the Brake as On, and Cruise as Disabled. I’ve got some sort of electrical issue here I believe, so time to start chasing impedance in the brake system I suppose. Unfortunately I’m going away for work for a few weeks tomorrow and won’t have the Rover with me.
#26
09-10-2018 | 09:46 AM
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Mudding
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 133
Likes: 9
The pump and actuator should be directly behind the coolant overflow tank. Also, if you follow the throttle cables from the throttle body, one goes to the cruise actuator and one goes to the pedal.
From my understanding, if your clock spring (cassette I think is what LR calls it) is bad, you shouldn’t have a horn or functioning radio buttons.
#27
09-11-2018 | 11:07 PM
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 231
Likes: 14
From: Kentucky
Doc,
The pump and actuator should be directly behind the coolant overflow tank. Also, if you follow the throttle cables from the throttle body, one goes to the cruise actuator and one goes to the pedal.
From my understanding, if your clock spring (cassette I think is what LR calls it) is bad, you shouldn’t have a horn or functioning radio buttons.
thanks for the location info👍🏻
Doc
#28
09-12-2018 | 07:45 AM
TReK
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,458
Likes: 804
From: Staten Island, NY
It is possible top remove the cruise vacuum unit as a single piece and open it up. You can then apply 12v to two of the terminals in the connection block to check that the motor works. After that, you can reassemble and apply power to the same two terminals to check for suction. That will help to eliminate the vacuum unit as the cause of the fault.
And just to be certain -- it's happened before -- you're pulling the switch on the steering wheel towards you, right?
And just to be certain -- it's happened before -- you're pulling the switch on the steering wheel towards you, right?
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