Does anyone know the part numbers for the u-joints in a D1 driveshaft? I mainly need the joints in the front shaft but may replace them all depending on cost. The u-joint at my front differential will not take grease and I believe that is what is causing my clunk sound when I accelerate from a stop. When I try to grease the joint the grease goes everywhere but into the joint. I even pulled the zerk fitting and made sure it not clogged or anything but it didn't change.

 

Same as the DII. Neapco 1-0005 or PDQ10005

 

Tractor Supply sells a deal for $35 that goes on the zerk fitting and has a plunger that forces penetrating oil into the U-joint freeing up the plug.

Thought about getting one.. Will find link later

 

If the grease is so solidified that you can't get any in, which is the case here, I would replace the u-joint since it's been operating un-lubed.

 

Same as a D2, you can also use a Percision 344.

 

Thanks guys. How difficult is it to replace a u-joint? I have been fortunate and never had to do it on any of my vehicles. Should I completely pull the driveshaft or can I replace the joint with it still in the truck?

 

Completely pull the driveshaft:

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If you keep working on getting grease to flow on your u-joint it may take it. One of my rear joint was clogged but I was able to force the old grease out with a little pressure holding the nozzle tight to the zerk. Mine was rebuilt improperly a while back (with a non greasable ujoint and no new centering ball) so I am paranoid now and will probably do mine too. Though I may just buy a Tom Woods in a few month. Ujoints usually give fair warning before they completely fail so just keep a listing for chirping and vibrations. I assume since you are a regular your gear oil and ATF is fresh and topped off, that can cause a thunk. Honestly though I have always had a bit of a thunk.

 

Do all four AK, I did and it cost me $35 at AutoZone.
It is a all day job doing all of them though.

 

Was just pricing them out online and Advance sells the u-joints for $11.99 each. Autozone had the same price but said they were special order. I'll definitely do the front 2 and if the problem still exists I'll do the rear 2. As usual for me, money is kind of tight right now.

 

Be careful where you get them. The last time I checked Autozone was selling Duralast of some unknown make but still listed with the PDQ number. Advance still had actual PDQ.
The real Neapco u-joints will be in a PDQ box (unless you get Neapco boxed ones from a driveline shop) but with Neapco in small print on the back. They will also say Made in USA on them, and have the zerk in the end cap.