Ok, so here's the deal:

'03 Disco SE with 70k miles.

I plan to tow the Disco behind my motorhome. I will also have an auxillary brake system in the Disco and it will work off of the cigarette lighter to power the brakes whenever the motorhome slows down or makes stops.

Owner's manual in the Landy gives clear instructions on the steps needed to be able to tow "four wheels down." Specifically, the manual states that the ignition must be set to the II position. So here's the issue: By the time I arrive to whatever my destination will be, the Landy's battery will be dead. I figured out that I could probably use a jump pack to power the auxillary brake, but I still have the issue of the battery going dead inside of a couple of hours because the ignition key needs to be set to the II position. So, here are the questions and thoughts:

1. Can I install a switch blade on the Landy's battery and in effect, kill the battery power so that upon arrival to my destination, I'll have battery power?
a.What problems could arise if I do this?
b. Any specific reason why the II position?

2. Read in the owner's manual that if the battery goes dead, three amigos could light up. T or F?

3. I suspect the Motorhome could supply power to the Landy and moot my concerns about a dead battery. Anyone proficient on maybe how this can be achieved?

Of course, other feedback is welcome.

For the record, I don't plan on tapping the electrical system in the Landy for brake lights, turn signals, etc. Using magnetic lights or something of that nature and using the motorhome's 4 pin setup to power the mag lights.

Thanks,
gbob

 

Forgot to add that besides the obvious of iginition being set to postition II - to be able to unlock steering wheel - if I install a battery blade and kill battery power to the Rover AFTER the ignition key is set to position II, will the steering wheel lock?

gbob

 

I'd favor power from the motor home supplying charge to Rover battery. In position 2, no spark coils energized, as crankshaft is not turning. Fuel pump times out after a couple of seconds. Fuel injectors are not energized as the crank shaft is not turning.

If you do decide to go with battery disconnected, be sure that you have vehicle unlocked when you do that, plus take off the connection to the hood alarm switch. Reconnecting a battery to a Rover can make the alarm return to last known condition, if that was "armed" and hood is open, welcome to the immobilization hassle castle.

 

An RV forum of which I am a member gave this answer to my problem. I suspect it is accurate.

RV Forum:
"Running a separate hot and ground from RV chassis battery to toad battery is likely the best solution, since your toad's parasitic loads are taking down the battery, not the auxiliary brake."

"Fuse at both ends. Best wiring is to use a relay at the chassis battery that is ignition triggered. That way, your toad is automatically charged when the coach engine is running. 10 gauge wire would be great. 12 gauge probably adequate if all you need to do is maintain an already fully charged toad battery."

I guess my next question would be what kind of fuse.

Any thoughts?