Deleting oil cooler
#11
#12
I don't know who wrote that thing that you "Copy/Pasted", but obviously he doesn't know much about oil & what temp is good for engine oil to be at a running engine,! He says he wants his oil temp at 180,!!
Best desired temp for oil in running engine is between 230* to 240*F, that's the temp that good motor oil is designed to operate at, & it provides best lubrication at those temps, not 180*F, !! It needs to be hot enough to evaporate water condensation in block as quickly as possible, (water condensation happens every time you start an engine) that's why short drives are most harmful, because oil doesn't get hot enough for long enough time to evaporate water build up in crank case, most good quality motor oils can take more than 250* to 260*F temps before starting to break down, (some up to 270*- 280*F),,
Use good quality oil & let it reach its operating temp, nothing bad will happen,,,
Bad things happen when cooling system can't keep coolant temp where it needs to be, then oil temp starts going up & oil starts breaking down gradually,, a good cooling system will maintain good temp for oil, & will keep oil temp where it needs to be,,
but on other hand even the largest oil cooler can't help a weak (coolant) cooling system & temp will rise to an undesirable degree,,
All & all oil coolers are good thing , but they are not as important as one might think in a non competition engine with a good cooling system that can keep coolant in desired temp's,
If you can maintain 180* to 190* f coolant temp, your oil temp will never go over 230*f with or without an oil cooler,,
If your coolant temp is constantly over 200-210*f, then oil temp is always over 250-260*f & an oil cooler will only reduce it a few degrees,,
Address the coolant cooling system & you have taken care of oil temp automatically,
Best desired temp for oil in running engine is between 230* to 240*F, that's the temp that good motor oil is designed to operate at, & it provides best lubrication at those temps, not 180*F, !! It needs to be hot enough to evaporate water condensation in block as quickly as possible, (water condensation happens every time you start an engine) that's why short drives are most harmful, because oil doesn't get hot enough for long enough time to evaporate water build up in crank case, most good quality motor oils can take more than 250* to 260*F temps before starting to break down, (some up to 270*- 280*F),,
Use good quality oil & let it reach its operating temp, nothing bad will happen,,,
Bad things happen when cooling system can't keep coolant temp where it needs to be, then oil temp starts going up & oil starts breaking down gradually,, a good cooling system will maintain good temp for oil, & will keep oil temp where it needs to be,,
but on other hand even the largest oil cooler can't help a weak (coolant) cooling system & temp will rise to an undesirable degree,,
All & all oil coolers are good thing , but they are not as important as one might think in a non competition engine with a good cooling system that can keep coolant in desired temp's,
If you can maintain 180* to 190* f coolant temp, your oil temp will never go over 230*f with or without an oil cooler,,
If your coolant temp is constantly over 200-210*f, then oil temp is always over 250-260*f & an oil cooler will only reduce it a few degrees,,
Address the coolant cooling system & you have taken care of oil temp automatically,
#13
Q: why delete the oil cooler, it wasn't put there because they had a spare job lot lying around in the factory!
Well known fact: The harder any machine works the more heat it generates hence on most racing cars they introduce dry sumps and oil coolers. Oil coolers are a useful way to dissipate excess heat and on many cars they are essential.
Most if not all vehicles are built to a price, if something isn't necessary they don't fit it and Ford are the prime example. the classic is the 1970's 4 cylinder thermostat housing, "why use 3 bolts when 2 will do", a prime example.
Well known fact: The harder any machine works the more heat it generates hence on most racing cars they introduce dry sumps and oil coolers. Oil coolers are a useful way to dissipate excess heat and on many cars they are essential.
Most if not all vehicles are built to a price, if something isn't necessary they don't fit it and Ford are the prime example. the classic is the 1970's 4 cylinder thermostat housing, "why use 3 bolts when 2 will do", a prime example.
#14
New hoses are expensive.
I got rid of my crimped ends and just put a hose on there with a clamp.
D2's are going to be having this problem now due to age and mileage.
#15
All you guys are right on the money with your thoughts. Most of my vehicles are turbocharged and more geared toward the performance side of the house so oil temps are very important and getting something of quality that is shear stable and resists breakdown is very important for those. I run an aftermarket cooler on my 300zx to aid with this and its an invaluable asset to the car. Any oil cooler is better than none but some have efficiency that is more of less questionable so I wanted to know if that was the case with these rover coolers. I will do more digging on the leak and see if its the o-ring or swedge on the line. I'm about to take in on a rather long road trip so if it just leaks a smidge its no biggie but I don't want to be left stranded along the way.
#16
#17
#18
If you're in the mountains, tow anything, or haul heavy cargo around the oil cooler will become critical. I guess LR added em when they were the "Best 4x4 By Far" and like a Boy Scout they were prepared. Then once the LR3 was in the works and about to be released LR deleted them for cost reasons on 03-04 D2's (oh and LR3's have oil coolers). Here in TX I'll take any kind of extra cooling I can get my hands on.
Last edited by Best4x4; 05-20-2017 at 09:10 AM.
#19
I have an 03 so didn't come with an oil cooler. That said, I had an 04 parts truck and initially planned on using its trans cooler to put in for an engine oil cooler.
Decided "meh, f*ck that. Engine is fine with the inline mod and I tow a lot." Engine was happy and so was I. I ended up buying some high temp y-couplings and hydraulic hose and added it in as a second transmission cooler because I end up towing a lot. Been choochin' right along happy as a lark, and since I have the side ports still available I'm going to use them for oil pressure and temp gauges.
Decided "meh, f*ck that. Engine is fine with the inline mod and I tow a lot." Engine was happy and so was I. I ended up buying some high temp y-couplings and hydraulic hose and added it in as a second transmission cooler because I end up towing a lot. Been choochin' right along happy as a lark, and since I have the side ports still available I'm going to use them for oil pressure and temp gauges.
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