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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by GROVERDISCO
Have you swaped out the crank position sensor? Might be worth a shot.

Good luck.
I was thinking the same thing.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by GROVERDISCO
Have you swaped out the crank position sensor? Might be worth a shot.

Good luck.
I thought about it, but the mechanic believes it would do no good as I can't connect to the ucu over the odbii port.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 07:46 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sDot
I thought about it, but the mechanic believes it would do no good as I can't connect to the ucu over the odbii port.
In most of the 'no communication, no start' cases that I get at my shop, it's either a fuse that has gotten corroded and no longer has a good connection (they usually look good and test good for continuity, but no voltage and/or amperage passes through them), or there is a bad ground. You really need a good wiring diagram for this type of diagnosis. I would test each individual power and ground coming in and out of the ECU.
I would ask the shop HOW they checked the fuses and relays. If they just checked the fuses for continuity, that's often not enough. You need to take the fuses for the computer out and make sure they're not corroded or melted. Also, you need to check the relays and make sure that voltage AND amperage are flowing through both sides of them.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 08:07 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by disc oh no
In most of the 'no communication, no start' cases that I get at my shop, it's either a fuse that has gotten corroded and no longer has a good connection (they usually look good and test good for continuity, but no voltage and/or amperage passes through them), or there is a bad ground. You really need a good wiring diagram for this type of diagnosis. I would test each individual power and ground coming in and out of the ECU.
I would ask the shop HOW they checked the fuses and relays. If they just checked the fuses for continuity, that's often not enough. You need to take the fuses for the computer out and make sure they're not corroded or melted. Also, you need to check the relays and make sure that voltage AND amperage are flowing through both sides of them.
Good stuff here. Listen well and heed.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 01:21 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by disc oh no
In most of the 'no communication, no start' cases that I get at my shop, it's either a fuse that has gotten corroded and no longer has a good connection (they usually look good and test good for continuity, but no voltage and/or amperage passes through them), or there is a bad ground. You really need a good wiring diagram for this type of diagnosis. I would test each individual power and ground coming in and out of the ECU.
I would ask the shop HOW they checked the fuses and relays. If they just checked the fuses for continuity, that's often not enough. You need to take the fuses for the computer out and make sure they're not corroded or melted. Also, you need to check the relays and make sure that voltage AND amperage are flowing through both sides of them.
This mechanic is very good and I know they were testing everything, I am not too sure if i want to spent literally thousands of dollars for them to keep going over the same things again and again.

There has been some amazing help in this forum, but it's time like this where I wish I was rich enough for a new truck, or smart enough to get a truck old enough to not have any electronics. I love my truck, but to go from driving fine with no issues to turning it off and it never starting again seems like a sadistic joke.

It's just hard as with a family this is our main vehicle for outings so we can take the kids bikes with us or go camping, and now it's a giant paperweight.

I think I might need to buy a Toyota, this Disco has given me PTSD where leaving my house without a tow truck following me makes my heart race.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #36  
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I would say that if you trust the mechanic and you know that everything has been checked properly, chances are, there is a problem with the ECU. The reason I always say, "diagnose, diagnose, diagnose!" is because I've seen many customers have their vehicles towed in (sometimes from other shops and even dealers) and they've replaced every possible part of the engine management system and still, it wont run. Then after an hour or so of diagnosis, I'll find a loose or broken ground or a fuse that has a bad connection or a relay that clicks, but has no current flow on the power side.
If they have narrowed it down to the ECU by excluding all other problems, then I would say replace it. I just hate to see people spend a ton of money on a problem and end up with the same problems.
Good luck, I hope you get it going and it doesn't cost you too much in the process.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 10:06 PM
  #37  
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The amount of knowledge in here is great and everyone has great suggestions. I am waiting for this ECU and we will see. If it starts then I am at fault for denying it's the ECU and if it doesn't, this mechanic is going to need to find the issue.

At the end of the day, I have enough invested where I would like to keep the trucking running for a few more years if possible, and small maintenance would be ok but so far this is a pain.

I would really love to have something nice and reliable, but it's hard not to be nervous anymore when things like this happens.

I guess we will have to wait and see.

What will happen when i put in an ECU from another truck though? It should start at least, right?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 06:20 AM
  #38  
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It is very possible that the computer is bad. It does happen sometimes.
I believe it will start if the computer is replaced (if it was bad and the new one is good). I don't think I've ever replaced one on a Rover, but I'm sure someone else will know.

I just replaced a computer, along with the engine, in a 2004 Chevy truck a week or so ago and I installed the computer that came with the new engine. When we went to fire it up, it just cranked over and wouldn't start because the transponder in the key didn't match the new computer. So we had to change it back to the one that came with the truck and it started right up.

I know the Rover has different electronics in it, so it's possible that the key recognition could be in another module??? Possibly the BCM? I'm really not sure, but I think I've heard of Rover computers being replaced with no problems.

Good luck, let us know what happens!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 12:47 PM
  #39  
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ECU will not talk to the BcEM unless a Rovacomm marries them.
Drowsap or MasterRoverTech will know this better than I.
So even with a new ECU you may have issues.

You may just have a bad ECU fuse.

And --
Press down on the fuel pump enable inertia switch in the front passenger area under the hood.

YEP - no OBDII means no ECU probably.

You just need to replace the ECU fuse.
There are also greater / larger feeder fuses under the hood.
Check for those too.

Some sloppy work probably blew the fuse while diagnosing the problem with
a volt ohm meter or a wire and a little lamp.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 08:44 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jfall
ECU will not talk to the BcEM unless a Rovacomm marries them.
Drowsap or MasterRoverTech will know this better than I.
So even with a new ECU you may have issues.

You may just have a bad ECU fuse.

And --
Press down on the fuel pump enable inertia switch in the front passenger area under the hood.

YEP - no OBDII means no ECU probably.

You just need to replace the ECU fuse.
There are also greater / larger feeder fuses under the hood.
Check for those too.

Some sloppy work probably blew the fuse while diagnosing the problem with
a volt ohm meter or a wire and a little lamp.
Which fuse is the ECU fuse?
 
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