Dex-Cool & Iron-tite - HELP!
#11
Re: buy a lottery ticket...
Yep.
The only thing I use is Bluedevil head gasket sealer. ONLY to fix unfixable cars IE: Cracked blocks around sleeves, Freelander MLS headgasket leaks, Freelander sleeve leaks.
I have not run into anything else that works. Everything else just seems to clog heater cores.
My suggestion is to drain all that garbage out, stick a hose in the coolant bottle, create a leak at the thermostat so that you can continually fill/flush the system with the car running.
let the car idle for a 1/2 hour like that. take the heatercore hoses off, flush in both directions.
Then refill the system with green coolant/water in like 75/25 mix.
Yep.
The only thing I use is Bluedevil head gasket sealer. ONLY to fix unfixable cars IE: Cracked blocks around sleeves, Freelander MLS headgasket leaks, Freelander sleeve leaks.
I have not run into anything else that works. Everything else just seems to clog heater cores.
My suggestion is to drain all that garbage out, stick a hose in the coolant bottle, create a leak at the thermostat so that you can continually fill/flush the system with the car running.
let the car idle for a 1/2 hour like that. take the heatercore hoses off, flush in both directions.
Then refill the system with green coolant/water in like 75/25 mix.
#12
@ RoverMasterTech - when you talk about "creating a leak at the thermostat", which hose would that be? Thermostat housing is roughly a "y" shape, with one part of the Y almost vertical, and the other leg coming off at around a 30 degree angle.
How would you go about creating this leak? I did my old land cruiser the way you are talking about, but it was a super-simple old straight 6.
Seems like the majority opinion is that to do this right, I should get the $27 kit from roverland to repair the throttle plate heater and flush the hell out of this thing, and replace with green.
Although Spike does have a point that the guys at a very good rover shop put this stuff in, and probably did so for a reason. I might call them up and see why they did it.
I'll check t-stat for crud as well.
"sigh" - I was hoping to get to leave this one alone for awhile, but I really don't feel like losing the motor. That could get expensive........
How would you go about creating this leak? I did my old land cruiser the way you are talking about, but it was a super-simple old straight 6.
Seems like the majority opinion is that to do this right, I should get the $27 kit from roverland to repair the throttle plate heater and flush the hell out of this thing, and replace with green.
Although Spike does have a point that the guys at a very good rover shop put this stuff in, and probably did so for a reason. I might call them up and see why they did it.
I'll check t-stat for crud as well.
"sigh" - I was hoping to get to leave this one alone for awhile, but I really don't feel like losing the motor. That could get expensive........
#13
Quit promoting an easy fix as an easy fix...
Return the cooiling system to the way it should be...
Flush it, clean it, repeat.
I have many years working in a radiator/resto shop, and still do, and there is NO product that doesnt cause you grief.
Stop leak is by far the WORSE garbage to put in your system. Just because it works for one guy doesnt mean it works for the other guy.
Savannah posts pics all day long that should be a lesson for the rest of us...
If stop leak is supposed to clog small holes, what do you think is in the thermostat picture that he posts?
That radiator picture compiled WITH stop leak would have failed months before...
If you need stop leak to get home, fine.
Flush, flush, flush, clean repeat.
Make it work like its suposed too.
Radiator additives, like stop leak, are nothing more then you being lazy.
Return the cooiling system to the way it should be...
Flush it, clean it, repeat.
I have many years working in a radiator/resto shop, and still do, and there is NO product that doesnt cause you grief.
Stop leak is by far the WORSE garbage to put in your system. Just because it works for one guy doesnt mean it works for the other guy.
Savannah posts pics all day long that should be a lesson for the rest of us...
If stop leak is supposed to clog small holes, what do you think is in the thermostat picture that he posts?
That radiator picture compiled WITH stop leak would have failed months before...
If you need stop leak to get home, fine.
Flush, flush, flush, clean repeat.
Make it work like its suposed too.
Radiator additives, like stop leak, are nothing more then you being lazy.
Last edited by shanechevelle; 02-22-2012 at 07:53 AM.
#14
I'm gonna start calling it "band aid in a jar". It has a place, like just before you trade it in to the stealership, who will auction it off to a soon to be new forum member. Or limping home, or till the next payday or bonus check (recall those?), or weather clears up.
BTW shannechevelle, with a D2 aluminum radiator, what can a rad shop do for hot chemical flushing and or rodding out - and what sort of prices get charged for that?
BTW shannechevelle, with a D2 aluminum radiator, what can a rad shop do for hot chemical flushing and or rodding out - and what sort of prices get charged for that?
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collin Barrows
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08-28-2011 08:13 AM