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Dies For No Reason

Old May 3, 2020 | 05:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LeatherBoots
So I changed the Crank Position Sensor. The problem stopped FOR TWO MONTHS. Thought I fixed it. Today it died again. 100% dead. No electronics. Dead. EXACT SAME TURN AS BEFORE. A hard brake sharp right turn. Blammo everything is dead. Any ideas? Battery Terminals are tight. Groundings look perfect. What else besides the CPS or the Battery terminals could cause a sudden loss of power?

What happens if I'm on the highway going 70 MPH if this happens.?
If it stopped for two months I would suspect CPS again. Can you recreate the issue? Does turning hard right do it again?
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 03:27 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
If you are losing everything electrical (headlights, dash lights, engine components, etc), then you have a major electrical fault at main supply. So, if your cables/teminals are clean and tight, ground and positive, at each end (battery, alternator bracket and starter)...l'd try swapping the battery. You may have two plates loose inside the battery that are touching together, especially if this is happening while turning.

lf you are not losing everything, then l'd pull the fuse box in drivers compartment and look for rubbing wires underneath.
I am losing everything. Everything. 100%. Car dies and goes black. I can restart it immediately and it comes back to life like like nothing happened. The Battery is great. It's not the battery.
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 03:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
If it stopped for two months I would suspect CPS again. Can you recreate the issue? Does turning hard right do it again?
Just tried to recreate the turn dozens of times and it didn't shut down. If this goes out while driving at 70 mph ... what will happen .. its a disco
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 06:09 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by LeatherBoots
Just tried to recreate the turn dozens of times and it didn't shut down. If this goes out while driving at 70 mph ... what will happen .. its a disco
That sort of reduces the probability it is a loose wire. Sounds like your new CPS is going out. If it is, you can try this. Next time it shuts down, try to restart. If it does not, pour cold liquid down the back of the engine near the number 7 spark plug wire. If it restarts after the liquid, you have a bad cps. Also, bad CPS almost never goes out a highway speed, the air flow past the engine keeps it cool enough to keep going. They usually stop at low speed, idling, or just refuse to hot start after stopping for gas, or to go in the store briefly.
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 08:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
... Also, bad CPS almost never goes out a highway speed, the air flow past the engine keeps it cool enough to keep going. They usually stop at low speed, idling, or just refuse to hot start after stopping for gas, or to go in the store briefly.
FWIW, the CKPS in my truck caused my truck to die when I pulled up to a stoplight on a January Sunday morning nine years ago after driving about 18 miles from a cold start. I had six boy scouts with me, headed home from a camping trip. We were 100 miles from home, and a parent had to come pick us up after I had the truck towed. Big fun.
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 08:34 AM
  #26  
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It does sound like the CPS, and the shutting off is it reacting to heat. Mine would die, no joke, in nearly the exact same place and distance from home. Eventually it just would not restart eventually. It did also eventually go into limp mode.

that said, I had CPS issues and it would shut down, but not lose all electricity.

Autozone can test your alternator and battery with a machine, or you can remove your alternator as well.

 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 08:35 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mln01
FWIW, the CKPS in my truck caused my truck to die when I pulled up to a stoplight on a January Sunday morning nine years ago after driving about 18 miles from a cold start. I had six boy scouts with me, headed home from a camping trip. We were 100 miles from home, and a parent had to come pick us up after I had the truck towed. Big fun.
One of the first lessons the D2 teaches you is humility.
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 05:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by LeatherBoots
I am losing everything. Everything. 100%. Car dies and goes black. I can restart it immediately and it comes back to life like like nothing happened. The Battery is great. It's not the battery.
Okay, since you are losing everything electrical...it is not the crank sensor. The crank sensor WILL cause it to stall/quit...but WILL NOT take the electrical system with it. You need to check ground cable at alternator bracket, just don't look at it...remove bolt and clean corrosion from terminal end. Then follow the positive cable down from battery to starter, look for spots where it has rubbed against something and is grounding out. It normally is attached to motor mount bracket with zip ties, maybe you have a bad motor mount and cable is getting pinched. And check connection on starter, you can pull the shield back easily to access terminals. Again, if you are losing all electrical circuits (headlights, engine components, radio, dash lights, etc, etc, etc)...you have a major fault in the primary electrical circuit (main feed or ground or main feed within fuse box under hood). To me, if it is dying while turning and you're sure the battery is good and the main cables check out okay...l'd pull the fuse box out and check for wires rubbed underneath.
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 06:47 PM
  #29  
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This sometimes happens in my trade ( hvac ) with infrequent shorts blown fuses etc

best thing to do here is have someone in the truck with the ignition on so all lights comes on the dash but no engine running.
Than get on top and bottom of engine and start shaking wires around wiggle wires around at battery fuse box grounds etc. You will find something. I would wear gloves.
But does sound like something in the fuse box main fuses relay connections
 
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Old May 8, 2020 | 10:09 AM
  #30  
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any answers to the electric fail?
 
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