No, there is nothing electric that would cause this and I am out of ideas. You might want to talk t=with a good Rover tech. and pick his brain.
Mike

 

The only thing I can think of is that it sat in the garage and I put it in gear and in park and back in gear and from low to high to neutral... etc so I could pull the console. I'm wondering if doing this without having the vehicle rolling inbetween each gear change has somehow jammed up the high/low gears inside the transmission. The high/low lever is in the middle (like it should be in neutral) but it drives like it's in high. Nearest Rover mechanic is 200 miles away... last time I called to get "advice", they told me to bring it in.

 

I really do not know if this will help, but my rover was not able to shift into Neutral or Low Range. I could go from High Range to Diff Lock. Well, I started tracking this issue. In my case, the Neutral Solinoid on the top of the Transfer Case did not appear to work; therefore, I removed it (real pain) and tested it to find out it was in good shape. Back Tracking from there, it appears that the Transmission Shifter is not sending the signal to the Neutral Solinoid when it is in Neutral or Park.

I have not as yet found the location of the problem, I know it is the Transmission when it is in Neutral. I though it might of been the fuse ( Fuse F13 in vehicle), but the fuse was in good shape. The other option I have thought of was to either install a switch on the dash to engage the solinoid when I want to shift to Low Range, and the other is to just cut the shaft off of the solinoid. Neither of those two I like, so I'm trying to determine the problem but may resort to one of the other two options.

One problem I'm having is that I cannot get the Automatic Transmission shifter **** off. I have looked for a set screw, tryed to unscrew it, still have not been able to remove it. I need to to be able to see inside for the shifting linkage.

 

I feel really dumb! I finally gave up on this issue and figured I would never have low range again. Then tonight I was reading up on some old posts and came across a reply I never read. Turns out my diff-lock problem was a blown fuse!!! I can't believe it! I think it was the #12 fuse. They say you should always start simple and the electrical problem did cross my mind at one point but I never checked the fuses! So I'm back in business for the 4x4 season... well, after my major head gasket job I am. :-)

 

I guess it must have been fuse #13 because here's what the manual says...

Transfer Box Interlock (NAS vehicles with
automatic transmission only)
The Transfer Box Interlock safety feature is designed
to prevent the transfer case shifter from being shifted
out of "H" or "L" unless the vehicle’s gear selector is
in the neutral position.
When the gear selector is placed in the neutral
position, voltage is applied to the Interlock Relay 2’s
coil through the Transmission Range Selector Switch.
The relay’s coil is grounded through the
Park/Neutral Position Switch.
Interlock Relay 2 now energises and applies voltage
from Fuse F13 to the Transfer Box Solenoid.
When the Transfer Box Solenoid is energised
the transfer box shifter can be operated.

 

I have a 2000 Disco II and have the same condition. The lever is in High and will not move to low regardless of Park/Neutral/Any gear, foot on/off brake etc. All my fuses appear to be intact. I don't have a current manual to check which number it would be and none of the icons look familiar.

Ideas?

 

I was wrong on an eariler post, there is a solenoid that needs to activate to all the t/case to shift,it most likely has failed.
Mike