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Check to make sure you installed the cps in the right stackup with the spacer. I had a shop onetime put in a new cps and when I took it apart found it was incorrect not allowing it to read properly therefore no fuel.
Check to make sure you installed the cps in the right stackup with the spacer. I had a shop onetime put in a new cps and when I took it apart found it was incorrect not allowing it to read properly therefore no fuel.
The one I installed looked exactly like the one that came off, so I’m guessing the spacing would be correct? All I know is I’m never changing the cps again. Dropped the exhaust and it was still near impossible to connect the “snap in” portion back in. Had to use 16” curved pliers to hold it and that almost didn’t work.
There's spacers for the bolts. Make sure they are in the correct stackup with the cover or else your fuel pump won't power up.
Dropping the exhaust is not necessary at all. Ive done it a few times with no issues.
Are we talking about the Bosch gas engine? Because I cannot think of anyway anyone could remotely get to the cps without dropping the exhaust. I’m all ears on how you did it because there seems to be zero space to reach into between the engine block and firewall.
If you use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, swivel and extensions, you can get nut closest to block easily, outer one is easy to begin with.
Made a tool, out of an old brake tool - but could be made from a piece of steel rod, to hold the upper portion of the connection, it slips around the harness wires and top side of plug and allows you hold upper portion, then use your other hand to push CPS plug in. Since it impossible to get two hands up there at once.
Put a set of visegrips on it to give me more leverage to pull upper plug down. Slipped the tool between inner fender and frame to achieve mission impossible.
Also, it's easier to remove sensor if you are laying with your head towards front of vehicle and legs towards rear, you can get a good eyeball at things this way.
The previous poster is talking about the two spacers that go on the studs, if you install then wrong, CPS will go into the flywheel to far and bend end of sensor. Rendering it useless.
Last edited by The Deputy; Aug 20, 2021 at 04:16 PM.
If you use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, swivel and extensions, you can get nut closest to block easily, outer one is easy to begin with.
Made a tool, out of an old brake tool - but could be made from a piece of steel rod, to hold the upper portion of the connection, it slips around the harness wires and top side of plug and allows you hold upper portion, then use your other hand to push CPS plug in. Since it impossible to get two hands up there at once.
Put a set of visegrips on it to give me more leverage to pull upper plug down. Slipped the tool between inner fender and frame to achieve mission impossible.
Also, it's easier to remove sensor if you are laying with your head towards front of vehicle and legs towards rear, you can get a good eyeball at things this way.
The previous poster is talking about the two spacers that go on the studs, if you install then wrong, CPS will go into the flywheel to far and bend end of sensor. Rendering it useless.
That makes sense, I managed to get it plugged back in but getting the old one unplugged was the hard part. So I found that the 30amp fuel pump fuse was blown, not sure how I missed that before, swapped it and still nothing. Now I’m wondering if I installed the pump wrong or cps wrong. I’m pretty darn close to towing it to a mechanic, the only thing that’s keeping me from doing that is I’m a cheap a$$
