You need to slow down, not sure you went thru all that work but you are probably causing some new issues.
Do you have a picture that you can post of the current engine compartment so we can see what your doing.
You can't bleed thru the radiator cap, do you still have original bleed screw, if so use it and bleed the system only when cold and the engine off.
Don't even think about messing with your t/stat and for sure get another electrical fan installed ASAP, it is needed for operating temps over 212 or when the a/c is on.
Once you get this sorted out properly use a scanner and get 3 temps, one at a 10 minute idle, one while in town driving and at highway speeds and let us see them.

 

Mike I will pursue your suggestions, thank you for the advice. I will take a more "brisk" pace here


While that is obvious, it doesnt escape with the same flow intensity and at the bottom of the truck the hottest air doesnt make it out first.

Plan at this point is 2 large push fans on the condenser to replace the non-functioning AC fan. Either on the same circut or on its own temp sensor based on the rad and bypassing that old system completely.

 

The fan not working will be a big problem at slow speed. You can drive without electric fans or even the mechanical fan at a constant 60 mph. But slow down and both fans are needed, certainly in summer. One idea is that with 180F stat, you would want the electric fan to come on ahead of the 212 stock setting. So an external fan and thermostat makes sense.

 

You probably put in a goofy motor-rad and not a real rover 180 degee T-Stat?
I have heard it has to be the real rover 180 degree T-stat. I forget - grey or such?
Anyway, I have had good luck with it.
You probably have the T-Stat in properly as it is parked with a too wp arrow.
I'll put my scanner back on and see what I am getting

 

Important point about the Motorad stat, have been posts about them not operating at expected temperatures.

Here's a pix a member sent in from his trip to the desert. With LR stat. Also had report of another desert trip, 109F towing a trailer, 195 F, 65 mph, which would be expected with extra load.

With the D2 thermostat, other work on the cooling system can break loose trash and fill up some of these holes, in which case it takes longer for hot coolant that is sampled to warm up the wax pellet inside the main chamber and open, or how far it opens. It is not a snap action on/off system. You can also cook it in a pot of water and check operating temp.

 

Yeah this is a motorad Tstat and I think its gonna be returned. I would assume it is operating and opening at around 192-95 like the stock one, or even later. I get warm even at basic short stop at lights at 205 after good stretches inbetween. I would guess the genuine LR dark one with the soft spring is the only trusted 82C 180F. 75 bucks is all I see it for from BP utah, anyone know of a cheaper place than them?

I also found a leak due to the one time use clamps allowing air in and coolant out slowly near the bleed right above the thermostat. That will be fixed tomorrow. That is a slow slow drip.

 

$64.95 at Rovers North
, shop around