To be clear, he didn't mean "clear the codes", he meant solve the problems that trigger the codes. Apologies if you understood that.

 

he may have meant "clear the codes". that way you can see which codes come back and in which order. some of the codes originally displayed may no longer be relevant.

the knock sensor code coming back first is a good clue on where to start looking first.

 

The ECM pulls timing if the knock sensor activates, so yeah, gutless and thirsty. Now the question is why does it activate?

 

I have switched the spark plugs and nothing changed. Wires are good too. Only concerning thing was wet and black spark plug at cylinder 7. Other plugs were clean and dry.
I bought new knock sensor yesterday to be sure its working and not showing fake values. it should arrive at monday.
Second thing I noticed was a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust when idling, though it disappears when I start driving. Could this be a problem with the valves strictly at cyl 7?
And the last thing and probably the worst is crack i found near cylinder 3. How bad is it?

 

I didn’t contact him about it yet, but if the problem continues I will ask.

 

And I forgot about cooling system.
It’s boiling and damping coolant from reservoir.
I’ve bleed the system yesterday and problem returned. The waterfall sound from the heater is present too.

 

How bad is the crack? The good news is nothing is leaking out. The bad news is a boiling coolant reservoir could be from exhaust leaking into the cooling system, for example a bad head gasket, or a crack between the exhaust and coolant passages in the cylinder head. Maybe try using a tester with the blue liquid chemical that turns yellow if exhaust gas is detected. At least, a compression test is in order.

PS White smoke could also be from coolant in combustion chambers.

 

Edit: the white smoke is gone. I started it this morning and no smoke

 

Hi, last week I had no time to work on my disco, but today I tried to drive with maf unplugged. It had rough idle at first but it got better. With maf unplugged it has noticeably more power between 1500-3000rpms and the biggest change was full consumption which was 15l/100 instead of 23-25l/100. So i think its gotta be a maf sensor. I contacted the seller too and he told me that disco was parked for 3 months before he sold it and before he parked it consumption was 15-19l on 35' tires (now its on small winter tires) which had me thinking about ecu water damage because 2 months ago in my td5 disco bcu got water damage what lead to always flashing hazard lights. My mechanic told me he will borrow me working maf sensor to check if it makes any difference. If not, that car electronic specialist who repaired bcu is my next destination.

 

Try scraping the crack with something. I had something that looked similar and I thought it was a crack, but it was just oil residue.