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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 02:04 PM
  #61  
Richard Gallant's Avatar
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@entjohnson PCV mod here https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...install-92942/

PM @Extinct re the inline thermostat mod
 
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 02:20 PM
  #62  
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@entjohnson Good luck on your project. I was in a similar condition as you this time last year. I ended up having to replace the engine which ended up costing me abut $6000 because my limited mechanical ability. I also made the mistake of keeping track of my builds and cost along the way. So far I am approaching about $19k and that is with me doing a large portion of the work. I had originally budgeted 10-12!
Link to build sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Overall though, I am happy with the result and I use it as my daily driver - 50 miles per day. I'm glad I had the engine replaced first so rather than deal with continuous gremlins over the next few years before inevitable failure. With all the major work behind me, the Disco has been pretty rock solid for me!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 09:51 PM
  #63  
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Been a while, so I thought I'd give an update.... @Extinct / @Richard Gallant thanks for the pointer to the PCV mod. Got that one taken care of. The heads checked out fine which was great news. We decided to go ahead and drop the oil pan and pull the front cover to help clean everything and go ahead and replace those seals since there was so much gunk it was hard to tell just how many places might have been leaking. My son decided to put a coat of aluminum paint on the valve covers and has now decided to go ahead and pull the exhaust manifold out to paint it as well. We had originally just unbolted it from the block. Time has been limited to a few hours here and there, but plan to get back to it in the morning and we should be finished taking things apart! Hoping to get everything cleaned up so that he can paint and start re-assembly. Oil pump looked good and timing chain seems ok. It's a battle keeping the budget in check vs going ahead and replacing them because I really don't want to be that far back into the engine any time soon. So far it's been a good experience but we are both ready for him to be able to drive it again. Already talking about a road trip to a salvage yard or two to see if we can't find a roof rack and a ladder. Thanks again for all the advice and I'll post another update when it starts resembling something other than a collection of parts all over the garage!
 
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Old Apr 25, 2020 | 06:10 AM
  #64  
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Don't waste your time or money on the exhaust manifold paint, there is not paint that will not burn off in the first hour of running. That far in, look at the cam bearings from below and make sure none are walked. Replace the water pump, also recommend doing the radiator and the plastic coolant bottle. Inline thermostat mod is always recommended.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2020 | 02:27 PM
  #65  
Richard Gallant's Avatar
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Might as well check the connection rod bearings too, I think you could pull a couple and if they are fine the rest should be
 
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Old Apr 25, 2020 | 03:16 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Don't waste your time or money on the exhaust manifold paint, there is not paint that will not burn off in the first hour of running. That far in, look at the cam bearings from below and make sure none are walked. Replace the water pump, also recommend doing the radiator and the plastic coolant bottle. Inline thermostat mod is always recommended.

you could get them ceramic coated if you have a shop nearby......
 
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Old Apr 26, 2020 | 09:34 PM
  #67  
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I had already picked up a water pump and it looks like the coolant system has recently had a once over with all new hoses. The throttle body has also been bypassed at some point in the past. I'm convinced the overheating issue was why the previous owner got rid of it. We had already pulled the exhaust manifolds off before seeing that painting was a waste of time, but in doing so found that one of them had a stud that had been replaced with a bolt and another one sheared off. Fortunately there was enough left to put it in a vise and twist it out. However, I'm not seeing replacement gaskets for those in the head gasket kit. Is it ok to put them ones that came out back in there?

@Extinct I looked over the bearings as best as my untrained eye is capable and didn't notice anything that I would consider to be "walking" or anything else unusual.

I think we are finally ready to start with the re-assembly as soon as our schedules line up again. One more question, there are a lot of small parts in the AB gasket kit and I've watched the video a couple of times and don't see any mention of them. In particular, there are two different small rings with 16 of each (maybe having to do with valves)? Do I need those? There are several other gaskets as well that I'm not sure where they might go. From what I am reading, this set is designed to work for multiple vehicle types, so there will be some extras, I just want to make sure I don't miss anything important. I'm assuming if I take care of everything mentioned in the AB re-assembly video I should be good to go.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 06:49 AM
  #68  
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Post up pics of the left over gaskets, we will help you. As far as the exhaust gaskets, coat both sides with red high temp silicone. Let the silicone skin over, then assemble but do not tighten. Let cure for 24 hrs, then tighten.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 06:57 AM
  #69  
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Be careful with silicone on the exhaust, I've always stayed away from it there because I've been told it can damage your cats. More info here. New exhaust mani gaskets are part # ERR6733 and are only about $4/each from FCP. I'm surprised you didn't get them but I would recommend new ones.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 01:12 PM
  #70  
Richard Gallant's Avatar
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@entjohnson the rubber o-rings are for the injectors the others should be the valve seals
 
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