While I don't think this was my source of knocking, this was likely making some racket.

 

The knocking source. Some of the BEBs were showing enough wear to see copper.

This will get pinned with stainless hardware, new rings and bearings.
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Will remote mount the coils and thermostat mod while I'm in here.

Not a repair I'd do out of the shop. Hours of of as-is no warranty type work. Only other options for this block are junk pile or top hat sleeves. If it can get another 50k we'll call it a success story. It is going back with 4.6 internals but keeping 4.6 pistons to keep the compression down ..for now.

Used a 3 lbs mallet to gently tap the liner back into place.

Have the initial hone done to all the cylinders. Did a final 45 degree cross hatch on one cylinder before remembering I need to hone again after pinning. DOH moment. Half the parts are at the shop so I won't finish until the weekend. Still need to get stainless wire tie all the pins together.

Really don't want to invest a ton in this engine set up as a diesel swap is still in the works. Just waiting to see what the reports are of the VW TDI 6l80 and 4hp transmissions before I pull the trigger. I can't afford to be a guinea pig in this economy!!



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If anyone here has pulled apart a 4.6 you'll notice a difference in the flywheel.

The 4.6 flywheel has a hub built into it. The 4.0 uses a thick spacer between the flywheel and the metal disk (the one I pictured broken) that bolts to the torque converter

I'm not sure if the tooth count for the CPS is the same on the two so I removed the plate off of my 4.6 flywheel and put it on my 4.0 flywheel. A little loctite on the threads so I can sleep better at night as well.

There was mud, red clay to be exact, everywhere inside the bell housing so I don't know if it got damaged being submerged in red snot soup or damaged during a previous engine removal/install.

Pic of 4.6 flywheel with obvious protruding hub

 

1/4-20 stainless studs and matching stainless locking nuts.

If I were to do this again I'd step up to 3/16.

Its hard to drill through stainless hardware. Expect to eat a lot of pricey drill bits

I installed them with threads coated with marine tex. Kind of like a JB weld but in my experience, better.

The outside threads are coated with blue loctite. The mating surfaces where the nut hits the block is permatex aviation gasket sealer.

It may be over kill but I don't want any leaks.

I have stainless wire to tie the studs together to prevent failure.

The block is thin, the sleeves are even thinner. Not a ton of bite on this.

Once I drilled and tapped everything I think id have been better off removing the sleeve, freezing it and then installing with a very liberal coat of loctire 640.

Too late now.

 

I probably missed something in an earlier thread, but with all the work you’re doing, why are you only expecting 50k? I’d be expecting 250.

 

Haven't seen a long term review of how long pinning an engine block keeps the sleeve from slipping again.

 

A picture of my cam bearing installation tool.

This is the same basic tool I also used to install the inner seals on my 4x4 Ford excursion front axle.

Its 6 ft (now it's about 5 ft because I used some to cut install studs for a mercruiser V8 exhaust manifold install) 3/8 all thread.

I have some random 3/8 inner bushings but you could substitute those with washers and bigger bolts. These allow me to reach the 3/8 nut on either end as you can see there is a lip on the large dish shaped plates I used to push in the bearings.

These large washers are blade holders for shindaiwa and echo string trimmers.

So long as you start the bearing straight these will walk the bearing right in.

I highly suggest putting a double nut in the threaded portion sitting outside of the block so you can spin the assembly together more quickly than having to turn a wrench a quarter of a turn at a time deep inside the block.




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Waiting on the new TTY single use rod bolts to arrive so taking care of some other maintenance items while the disco is off the road

First up is resealing the leaky transfer case. Light film of black or grey rtv on all the gaskets and permatex aviation sealer on all the bolts threads.

Normally is pressure wash it before resealing but it's too cold so a gallon of gas, metal tooth brush and plenty of rags got it eh clean enough to touch.

Since it's sitting on a bench I decided to scrounge some parts together for a center differential lock.

​​​​​​A couple locking nuts, what's left of what was formerly a Honda gx160 governor shaft and a heavy duty throttle cable. Attached it using a piece of scrap metal. Total cost: $0 as it's what I had laying around the shop.

I'll have to look at the interior of the disco to see where this will be mounted.

 

JESUS CHRIST!!! Please tell me you are not using gasoline as a cleaning solvent! Don't! EVER!!!! There are far too many cleaning solvents available for anyone to think that gas is a good choice. My uncle and cousin's stay in the burn unit was all it took for me to realize how criminally stupid that is.

Please stop.

 

Chill out a bit there fire Marshall Bill. Want to know what else is flamable? Brake cleaner. Carb cleaner. The acetone we clean our paint guns and paint equipment with. All explosive. Thinning paint with acetone is a common practice, then spray with a gravity feed gun literally atomizing explosive fuel. Just do it in a shop, like when we prep a bay as a temporary paint booth, with no ignition sources and good ventilation.

I didn't take 5 gallons of gas and dump it all over the transfer case. I pour a bit in a small container in the shop. Free of any ignition sources. Dip my brush in the gasoline and scrub. Do a little section at a time. Wipe with rag after getting the gunk loose and repeat if necessary. This transfer case has a ton of repeat!

The oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers, pistons and heads were all soaked in gasoline for a few days, in sealed containers, before I began cleaning them.

We are a shop and have been cleaning/soaking engine parts in gasoline for many decades. Its a great grease cutter. Wear gloves. Use common sense. Don't clean a running vehicle with anything explosive or use it near any sort of flame or ignition source.

At any given time we have 100-1000 gallons of waste gasoline we pay to have hauled off.

Kerosene (7 bucks a gallon) and diesel (3.39 a gallon) also make a good crud cutter but I don't have a free source for it.

And I'm not going to tell you what we ran in our parts cleaner 25 years ago, you'll probably get an ulcer.