Intermittent driver’s door latch issue on my low-miles ’00 D2 — finally sorted it today. Thought it was the latch, but it turned out to be the wiring connector not fully seated (likely since a dealer replaced the regulator back in 2014).

I swapped in a new FQJ102910 latch anyway (had it on the shelf since 2022), along with a carrs4x4 stainless rod, new water membrane (EJD101770), and fresh interior wood trim. So now I’ve got a spare good latch.

Noticed while digging around online: most D2 door lock actuators are now NLA from JLR. That could be a big problem for us 10–20 years down the road (alarms, locks, etc.). Curious if anyone’s thinking about long-term solutions here...

Also — no need to remove the window frame. Some posts and even recent YouTube videos say you have to, but that’s bunk. I just did it without removing the frame, and forcing it out only risks breaking the glass. Posting this so anyone searching in the future has a clear answer.

1. After you remove the inner door panel and peel back the water membrane...
2. Remove the Torx on the outer door handle, slide it forward, and pop it out, do not remove it entirely (it is held by the rod, you will break it if you attempt to force it out, you have to undo a plastic clip inside the door which is only accessible behind the water membrane)
3. Inside the door, you see the rod coming down off the door handle into the door latch secured with an off-white colored plastic clasp. You delicately unclip the 2 hooks, and open it up. This frees the rod.
4. Remove the external door handle fully.
5. Remove the 3 Torx on the edge of the door holding the latch.
6. Remove the 1 screw holding the top of the latch on the inside of the door (on mine this was behind the tar substance of the inner door water membrane -- it’s tough to see - it’s a single black screw !
7. Undo the 10mm bolt at the bottom of the rear edge of the door inside the cavity - holding the bottom of the window track
8. Undo, the bigger Torx bolt holding the window track on the rear edge of the door, just under the window belt line.
9. This allows you to flex that window track a bit towards the front of the car (bend it forwards a bit),
10. Then you can rotate the drivers door latch around the window track... I lowered it about 2 cm.
11. Don’t lower thr the latch to the bottom of the door or anything like that. It rotates out almost exactly in position. I fought with it for an hour before I realized it rotates out right where it is. Careful. There are bits of plastic on the casing that will break if you force it too hard (on the old one or the new one you’re putting in).

Reassembly Checklist:

- 3 electrical connections: Door latch, Door speakers (2 speakers for hi-line, 1 speaker for base model)
- Horizontal Steel Rod from exterior door handle seated in proper place in new door latch
- Vertical thin rod from door handle into white plastic clip to open door (may require adjustment)
- Door lock button into green clip
- Interior door pull into latch (note how it clips in, without proper clip in it is not under tension and won’t open door)

Reference Pics Below:


Original door water membrane held up pretty well, usually they are way more thrashed than this. From service history, I think this door has only been open once to replace the regulator in 2014

Reference photo of door with water membrane removed

Clip holding rod from Exterior Door Handle to Latch

Old latch on ground

Rod with Pin

Carrs4x4 steel rod done

Broken window rollers from dealer repair over 10 years ago in bottom of door

I didn’t actually remove the door pull and those mount points for the handle mounts - that would require re-riveting - waste of time - I carefully cut around them, good enough. I also just punched thru the clip / screw holes...

Box w/ part # of water membrane

Original 1999 / 2000 wood on left had a crack


Cleaner wax took junkyard wood piece to new looking btw.

Complete

 

Yes, working on solutions to NLA door locks, stay tuned....

 

Extinct to the rescue!