03 disco2 104k on it. No clue on maintenance soo with that. I am wondering if it's normal to have a lot of pulling left or right with bumpy un Ben roads. Here in Syracuse NY roads get bumpy with the cold weather so like at stop lights the divets in the road they will make the truck pull I wanna say more to the right. And sometimes will feel like your riding woopty doos like in a road where right side was repaved. Is it due to having solid front axle or some worn out suspension steering parts. On high way feels pretty good.

 

Assuming alignment is on, I'd check out all the suspension bushings and shocks and steering damper. If coils are original they are due for a swap too

 

I have a D1 that will track straight at up to 70mph off road over dips, whoops, potholes and across washboard. The solid-axle, radius arm front suspension is perfect for handling rough roads at speed while still offering good flex and clearance. It's a good compromise between IFS which is more ideal for high speed bombing, and a 3-link which flexes better over the toughest obstacles.

To get a well-behaved Rover suspension, good bushings are a must. I have the SuperPro poly bushings in every bushing front and rear. The stock rubber bushings are good too, but whatever you have it has to be in good condition. I will probably have to change mine every 2 years or less.

Worn Panhard rod and radius arm bushings will mess up the handling. The Panhard rod bushings when worn can make the front axle wobble. Another bushing(s) that can cause pulling is the rear trailing arm. If the trailing arms are loose due to shot bushings, you can get the rear axle thrusting at an angle due to the torque of the driveshaft twisting the orientation of the rear axle sideways.

The steering joints also have to be in good shape. TRE's in good condition will work great, or you can convert to 3/4" FK heims.

If you have the stock ride height, then you just need to adjust the toe on the front correctly. If it's toed way out you may have some handling issues. Excessive toe in can cause it too. Set the toe to about 1/16" of out; so the front of the front wheel rims are 1/16" of an inch farther apart than the back of the front wheel rims. It is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the tie rod. I just use a measuring tape.

For my liking, the shocks have to be awesome. I do not think that anyone sells shocks off the shelf with the right valving for Rovers, not even close. There are certainly no non-rebuildable shocks that have even close to enough compression damping. But I believe Bilstein and Fox sell good dampers that can be valved owner-valved and they're not too expensive.

The Land Rover needs a lot of compression damping, especially on the rear because the angle of the shock and the direct action creates a falling rate. With the engine in front, and weight transfer under braking, the front also needs a lot of compression damping. I found it works great with a lot more than the stacks off the shelf.

I have also found that with enough damping, the shocks resist roll enough that it can handle well even without any anti-sway bars.

 

Thanx for the info guys. I Am for the most part just trying to get through this winter and plan on digging into all this stuff. I've gotta do the same to the bimmer this summer too. Sooo yay!! Lol, this thjng needs some new front tires too. Outsides are worn more than insides.

 

That tire wear indicates the wheels are toed-in. I'm pretty sure they should be toed slightly out. There's no need to pay for an alignment. Just shorten your tie-rod a bit so the rims are 1/16" closer at the back of front rims than at the front of front rims.

But the extra length in the tie-rod may be an indication of worn TRE's. It may be slop in the joints that is adding length.