Electrical Issue after Head Gasket Replacement

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Dec 30, 2017 | 10:03 PM

#11

Charlie_V

Camel Trophy

Joined: Nov 2012

Posts: 3,717

Likes: 248

From: Longview, Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by LADisco2

So I hold down the inertial switch and lock/unlock 3 times to reset? The battery has been disconnected for 2 months but on the slow charger for 3 days prior to reinstallation yesterday.

What should I expect when starting it? What should and shouldn't I do? Do I have to bleed the fuel system before starting? Do I need to spray starter fluid in the throtte?

Thanks.

There's no reset that I'm aware of. The inertia switch stops the fuel pump and makes the hazards flash. Basically, that is what happens when you have a wreck. It can also happen of you jostle it or get towed. When I did my first head gasket job I had to press mine after a few minutes thinking I'd killed my Disco.

Number 9 is asking about the order of things, I think, to determine whether you somehow immobilized your vehicle with the sparking. Thankfully, I've never done that.

Mine was without a battery for FIVE YEARS so that should not matter.

When I disconnect the battery I make sure the ignition switch is in the on position and leave a door open. That should ensure that the alarm is not Co fused when it wakes up. Then, as others stated, I connect the positive terminal, then the negative. I haven't had a major problem doing that. If the alarm goes off when it wakes up I just put the key in the door and turn to unlock. The alarm always stops. But my horns blare when my alarm activates.

Last edited by Charlie_V; Dec 30, 2017 at 10:05 PM.

Dec 31, 2017 | 05:36 AM

#12

LADisco2

Thread Starter

Three Wheeling

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 81

Likes: 2

From: Los Angeles, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Deputy

I would have drained it one more time, after dousing the rockers and lifters. Getting all of the coolant out of the block prior to disassembly is very difficult and it usually enters the cylinders/oil pan when pulling the heads. So, if you added fresh oil on top of the residue in pan...it really defeated all purposes of new oil.

For the price of six quarts of oil..I'd drain it again.

Brian.

6 qts of Rotella T5. The car sat with the drain plugs open for 2 months. Wouldn't all tbe coolant have dripped out by then?

Dec 31, 2017 | 07:53 AM

#13

LADisco2

Thread Starter

Three Wheeling

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 81

Likes: 2

From: Los Angeles, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Deputy

That would be 6 qts of Rotella T5. The rockers etc were oiled with a few shots from a vintage copper oil can--there was hardly any oil to drain. The collant drain plugs were left open for the last 2 months Wouldn't all tbe coolant have dripped out by then?
Of there was coolant in the oilpan, wouldn't that show on the dipstick?

Dec 31, 2017 | 09:08 AM

#14

The Deputy

Camel Trophy

Joined: Oct 2016

Posts: 4,867

Likes: 1,410

From: Michigan

Edit, miss read post...not sure if you are talking about oil plug or coolant drain plugs?

No, oil is heavier than oil...so it would not show up on stick. Just pull the oil plug out for a moment and drain off a small portion of what's at the bottom of the pan, maybe a quart or until it looks like nice clean oil, install plug, refill and start her up.

Brian.

Last edited by The Deputy; Dec 31, 2017 at 09:14 AM.

Dec 31, 2017 | 09:56 AM

#15

number9

Pro Wrench

Joined: Nov 2015

Posts: 1,935

Likes: 189

From: Coastal Georgia

Quote:

The collant drain plugs were left open for the last 2 months Wouldn't all tbe coolant have dripped out by then?

Block would be very close to coolant free as possible. About the only way to remove any residual would be by blowing out with air. Removing block drains as you apparently did prior to HG change is probably the best way to prevent coolant from entering the cylinders during head removal.
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