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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #131  
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You were close. WIX 51515
I don't know which MANN is being referenced, but I wouldn't use one that has a higher bypass psi valve setting (which the one in the original post has) than what is specified by Rover, which is 8.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by antichrist
You were close. WIX 51515
I don't know which MANN is being referenced, but I wouldn't use one that has a higher bypass psi valve setting (which the one in the original post has) than what is specified by Rover, which is 8.
Thank you.
This MANN filter they speak of is the size of a iced tea pitcher and has to weigh in around 10lbs when full of oil.
I would not want that hanging off of my engine putting all of that strain on the front engine cover bouncing down a two track with no cell signal and a days walk from help.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #133  
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I am going with the m1-301 for this change since it is sat and available without running out to the napa store
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 12:24 PM
  #134  
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this was an interesting link
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by TOM R
I am going with the m1-301 for this change since it is sat and available without running out to the napa store
Nothing wrong with them, other than being over priced.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 05:26 PM
  #136  
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i agree but it was also on sale so... i also went with the rotella t 10w-30 see if it is better tommorow when I start up and alot cheaper then the rotella 5w-40
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #137  
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A 10w is going to be more viscous than 5w. If it's taking a long time for the oil light to go out, you're going the wrong direction.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #138  
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I also purchased one of these filters in the past from WorlPac just to see how it would work. In my opinion, it is far too heavy for the timing cover. The factory replacement Mann filter is a much better choice. Besides, if you need that much filter then you engine problems anyway. LOL
Also, diesel engine oil in a gasoline engine is not a good idea either. I only use Lubro-Moly 5/40 in my 4.6 and all my customer Rover's. It stops a lot of the engine noise and isn't all that bad on the seals. Part of my job is to stop the leaks... which I have had a high success rate with. And you can run it all seasons. Just my two cents worth.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by TOM R
i agree but it was also on sale so... i also went with the rotella t 10w-30 see if it is better tommorow when I start up and alot cheaper then the rotella 5w-40
The lower the bottom number the quicker the oil pumps through a cold engine BUT you cant actually get lower than a "5".
The higher the top number the thicker the oil is when hot.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by antichrist
A 10w is going to be more viscous than 5w. If it's taking a long time for the oil light to go out, you're going the wrong direction.
5w would be best but 10w is still lower then 15w figured I would try to find some middle ground instead of going from one extreem to the other as I am not expecting sub zeron*F temps here
 

Last edited by TOM R; Jan 26, 2013 at 06:59 PM.
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