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Engine Rebuild

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  #11  
Old 07-23-2013, 03:53 PM
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This all goes to prove an old theory that I have followed since the early 1960s: One should never ever own a Rover product, unless they are rich, or unless they do all their own mechanical work (and know what they are doing), or both!
 
  #12  
Old 07-23-2013, 03:57 PM
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A "Bullet poof" engine description is misleading and deceptive. An engine with top hat liners can still get cracks in aluminum walls behind liners, from overheating, which can lead to serious problems, "bullet proof" or not!
 
  #13  
Old 07-23-2013, 06:14 PM
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As it is aluminum, it definitely comes with the risks.

Hopefully now that I'm taking over disco possession from the wife, I think it will last a hell of a lot longer than the original 90 miles...
 
  #14  
Old 07-24-2013, 11:21 AM
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I did the research & went with Great Plains Rover because they had the best warranty. Only have about 2K mi on mine but it's solid, has noticably more hp, better mpg & runs smoother. When I thought I had a RMS leak, Mike said he'd work with any local mechanic to get it squared. No tricks, caveats, no "since you didn't have an ASE mechanic do the install..." (did it myself). So I can confidently say their warranty (LB = 3/SB = 1 yr) is as rock solid as their engine!

Having said that, I've heard mostly good things about several others (D&D, Cannibal, Robinson albeit pricey!!!) and would not disagree with any of these choices.

One critical piece of info I'd pass on from a long conversation with Mr Robinson is to use a 99-00 P38 Range Rover 4.6 block. Since the 03-04's had issues, (coolant passages not centered, cylinder bore slightly off, etc.), if you get a rebuilt block from either of these years, you could easily end up with a cylinder crack. Now, this SHOULDN'T matter since the top hat liners seal top and bottom, but if you don't like the idea of having cracks in your $6K engine, the 99-00 RR block is the only way to go.
 
  #15  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:41 PM
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Argh! Every time I check this site I get more nervous! I've decided to go ahead and preventatively change the radiator (good idea?) thoughts?

Here's a pic of status...
 
Attached Thumbnails Engine Rebuild-image-3621837742.jpg  
  #16  
Old 07-24-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hutchtrickstar
Argh! Every time I check this site I get more nervous! I've decided to go ahead and preventatively change the radiator (good idea?) thoughts?

Here's a pic of status...
Couldnt Hurt.
Add a new 180 thermo and then you'll be golden
 
  #17  
Old 07-24-2013, 09:06 PM
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Didn't they make a supercharged Xterra for a while? Sorry, you mentioned "Nissan" and it got me thinking. Pretty sweet ride as I recall.
 
  #18  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:13 AM
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What's the status of the top hat/flange lined engine that you had put in? I'm seriously considering purchasing a long block from Atlantic British/British Pacific based on the design of John Robison: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9257BRHRSECK.cfm

I would really like to get some detailed feedback from people who have put these engines in their truck and can tell me how they are running after doing so. My local Rover repair shop has done multitudes of repairs but after asking the head mechanic today about these engines, he has never heard of them. Has me really wondering. Anyone?
 
  #19  
Old 08-01-2013, 07:51 AM
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So far great. I've had it less than a week and 3 of those days I was away on business, but it is definitely a smoother ride. I did get a new radiator and got rod of the dexcool so I feel good about the cooling system. I have to drop the headliner this weekend...front sunroof isn't working and liners is sagging....part of the course I guess.
 
Attached Thumbnails Engine Rebuild-image-2906221039.jpg  
  #20  
Old 08-02-2013, 02:04 PM
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I have to admit, the engine runs effortlessly right now
 
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