Not sure what happened, I know I did not do it. Was changing plugs yesterday on my 04 D2. The nitrile glove I was wearing got torn when I went to do #8 cylinder. Could not figure out why it ripped. I realized that at some point, a mechanic must have over tightened the lower bolt on the exhaust manifold and snapped the head off. All the threading is there due to the spacer, also long gone. I think this is contributing to my loud exhaust, Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get the bolt out with out having to take the entire manifold off?

 

Drill and tap. Good luck, I hate doing that.

 

With the sleeve gone and the threads exposed, all you need to do is clean the threads, thread 2 nuts on the remains of the bolt, tighten them against one another, heat it up, and back it out with a socket.

No need to drill and tap.

 

I assume you're talking about between the manifold and the y-pipe. Abran is correct. You'll need a new gasket too, of course. I'd personally go back with a grade 8 bolt with some antiseize on it. Chances are you'll shear a couple more getting the nuts off if you drop both sides. You'll have an easier time if you drop both sides of the y-pipe.

Truth is, even if you decide to drop the whole manifold it's pretty easy, just means you need more new gaskets. It would probably make the job easier on you since you wont have to work on your back over your head as much.

Edit: You mentioned a sleeve though (which I noticed reading Racer X's post after I posted mine), which leads me to believe you're talking about the head side of the manifold. In that case, his idea will work perfectly if the threads are not too disfigured. However, you'll almost definitely need a couple new gaskets for that side. It's also possible depending on how long it's been leaking that the exhaust gasses have eroded away at the soft aluminum head. Depending on how badly eroded it is, you can likely just use some copper RTV on both sides of the new gasket to seal up the eroded area.

 

If this link works it is bolt number 5.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...52801bd7f8.gif

Racer I understand what you are saying about putting two nuts on, but what do you mean by heating up? How do the two nuts stay in place to back the bolt out?

 

Wrenched tightly together and then putting the loosening wrench on the inside nut only usually works. Best to slide a box or combo wrench over broken bolt first rather than having to use an open end. They will usually stay in their places and difficult to answer why.
......

 

Number 9, Thanks for the clarification. Has anyone ever used bolt extractors? a couple people make them, and it appears you hammer it on then wrench it out? That seems almost too easy?

 

find out if it is leaking before you try anything

 

Well, things were not as bad as I thought they might be. It turned our that the gasket from the exhaust manifold to the pipe had one side blown out. Looked like a pretzel that someone had taken a bite out of. With the help of good buddy who is a really good wrench turner, we got the new one in place. A couple of lessons learned:
1) Rover owners should from time to time take a wrench to every bolt they can reach. two out of three nuts on the studs were loose.
2)Take time to see if you can really determine what is wrong, and what caused it. I was almost sure that the exhaust manifold was cracked, but alas no. As drowssap correctly point out, confirm it leaks.
3) If you do replace the manifold to pipe gasket, use tons of PB blaster.
4) New nuts are really important. We tried using the original nuts, but exhausted leaked past all three. I think the heat warped them over time. I had new nuts anticipating having to replace the studs so I had them on hand. With the new nuts secured there was no leakage.
I have decided to leave the exhaust manifold bolt with the broken head in place for now. Again kudos to drowssap for point out the need to verify.