The fix
Thread Starter
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TReK
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 396
From: kitchener, canada
The fix
just thought I would start something new
please let us know your problems you had with your disco 2 and what was the fix ???
I had several o2 sensor faults my fix was the fuel purge valve sometimes sticking open
bought a Hyundai purge valve and fixed
please let us know your problems you had with your disco 2 and what was the fix ???
I had several o2 sensor faults my fix was the fuel purge valve sometimes sticking open
bought a Hyundai purge valve and fixed
P1590 - Sticking slides on caliper.
Removed caliper from bracket and removed pads. Cleaned from pads, bracket and caliper. Installed anti-seize on pad slide area, pad backing to caliper and bracket and re-assembled.
Removed caliper from bracket and removed pads. Cleaned from pads, bracket and caliper. Installed anti-seize on pad slide area, pad backing to caliper and bracket and re-assembled.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 240
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
Thought my block had cracked after my rebuild because white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust along with drops of what I thought was coolant dripping out of the tailpipe, too.
Oh no.
Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil.
Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before!
NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc.
Oh no.
Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil.
Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before!
NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc.
Thread Starter
|
TReK
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 396
From: kitchener, canada
Thought my block had cracked after my rebuild because white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust along with drops of what I thought was coolant dripping out of the tailpipe, too.
Oh no.
Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil.
Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before!
NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc.
Oh no.
Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil.
Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before!
NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc.
didnt think oil would do that much difference
I use 5w and 10 w 30 or 40 synthetic
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
Thought my block had cracked after my rebuild because white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust along with drops of what I thought was coolant dripping out of the tailpipe, too.
Oh no.
Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil.
Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before!
NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc.
Oh no.
Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil.
Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before!
NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc.
My block has however cracked, and behind the sleeves.
After talking with Extinct, it seems my best option is a quality(hasn't been overheated) 4.0 short block, and transfer my pistons, rings, wristpins, rods, cam, rod and main, bearings, and 4.6 crank.
Apparently the blocks are the same, and the early models don't have the casting flaws of the later models(4.6). The extra displacement of the 4.6 is from the stroke only, and the 4.6 crank fits the 4.0 block with no modifications.
He has a used parts LR guy that has several good 4.0 short blocks.
So, a 4.0 block, ARP head studs, and I'm still seriously considering the cometic head gaskets.
It's looking like I'm going to save my Disco too!
