I decided to go with the GTO fan, and will return the Flex-Lite. I like the radiator coverage, and I can control the two fans separately. I ordered a Ron Francis AR99 which is an adjustable dual fan controller. I will start the large fan at 180, and the smaller fan will come on 10 degrees higher. It got great reviews which the Flex-a-Lites and Derales just do not get.

I will have the radiator out tomorrow and will take a picture with the GTO fan on it so you guys can see how it looks.

 

I hadn't seen that controller. Honestly, I just found the cheapest adjustable temp one I could.

Glad you got all this worked out. Can't wait to see a picture.

 

I will upload a picture with the old radiator. I was really able to trim it down and it is fitting really well. Just need some weather stripping for the side.

It's turned into a boondoggle, but with the radiator out it is much easier of course.

Alex, have you considered DC Controls two speed controller? That's pretty cool. The Taurus fan I am willing to bet would do the job as well, but the GTO fan covers so much more, and heck junkyards don't take returns.

 

Here are some pictures. I trimmed the sides, top and bottom quite a bit, as well as the inside. I used an oscillating blade and it was easy. if you take out the radiator before trimming it would even be better. I tried to install with Radiator installed. Bad, bad idea.

This fan was off a 2005 with 23,500 miles or so.

 

That's a lot of fan. The controller seems the way to go. I bet this set up works great. Are you keeping the pusher fan?

 

I am left over with a Taurus fan, and the flex a lite 180 set up. I installed the 14" flex a lite slim fan which is my a/c fan and that will stay of course. It really kicks air, a little loud but nothing I can't live with. An s bladed fan may have been quieter.

 

I got the new radiator, and fan installed today. Test drive went well. 91 degree weather, A/C cranked and temperature in heavy traffic was 198 tops. Average was 195, and 193 when moving.

I put the evans coolant back in as long as I had it empty, and am pleased with it. It may run a few degrees hotter, but there is less pressure in the system and you can feel it when you squeeze the hoses.

Next week I will get the Ron Francis controller in and may be able to lower the temps. The Flex-a-lite controller is in the radiator fins and it went on when the engine was at 197 and brought it down to 193 idling.

 

From what I have read on the subject the Evans waterless coolant does not have the same thermal heat transfer efficiency as traditional glycol coolant + water. So the temps across the board are going to be a few degrees higher with the Evans.

However, the benefit of almost zero coolant pressure in an engine that has issues with head gaskets and leaky piston liners seems to outweigh that concern. Installing a 180 degree genuine thermostat and a big high-quality electric fan with a shroud sure seems to be the ticket.

 

Actually, the ticket in this situation would be a thermostat modification. Since the LR setup utilizes both heat and pressure to function within its design perimeters, I don't believe that he is able to capture this potential of the Evans type coolant. If the stock system was modified to the in-line Tstat housing and high flow GM style 180 deg Tstat, the Evans coolant could be more beneficial, and system pressure would be reduced. Your temps will be 10-degrees lower with a traditional, green coolant and a system mod without taking the Evans or cooling fan into account. Something to think about.

 

Granted, but the system has 20# of pressure with glycol based coolant vs. essentially zero pressure with Evans, which in this flawed engine is significant. Crack behind a liner may not spit coolant into the combustion chamber. Higher boiling point of Evans may not allow it to be be super-heated through water jacket compromises due to the combustion process. There will be zero corrosion in the system. Radiators and heater matrix will not clog -- there are many benefits.

Getting rid of the factory fan makes sense from a parasitic loss perspective on an engine that is already down on power. I'll bet the water pump would last twice as long without that fan and clutch assembly out there, especially when there is no corrosion on the impeller or body.