So, I have replaced all the other components... rotor, calliper, and greased it all. There is a slight rubbing / grinding sound from the front left side. To top it off, the ABS sensor / Wheel Speed Sensor trips every so often.

I believe the hub / wheel bearing assembly is done. So I am looking for some advice - I have a parts truck and know it is good. Would it be easier to pull the whole half shaft (hub, cv joint, etc) and install on my truck OR do I separate the hub and swap that part?

How much work in the end... the Rave Manual looks like it should be easy enough. Also - is there something I should do while in there?

Thank you for the help.

 

Separating the hub takes a huge torque wrench and 300 pounds of torque to seat the new one. If you have good hubs use them with the shaft connected. That way you just have some bolts to take off and put on. There is an o ring in the hub (I can't remember whether that is front, back, or both) but if your donor isn't leaking I wouldn't mess with it. I would also take the whole thing off without disturbing the ABS sensor if you can. Just swap it all over.

You've got the rave but my recollection is jack it up, remove he tire, remove the caliper, remove the rotor, then take 5 bolts off the back. Beat the hub off (don't use pry tools if you can avoid it) and slide it out. Slide the new one in and be sure the end of the shaft goes in the differential, then button it all up.

If you raise the axle a bit you won't get gear oil everywhere.

 

Thanks a lot... I am a little stumped, I was on British Atlantic's site and they are recommending to do just the hub?? Has anyone taken the the hub and shaft off at the same time? Are there any seals that need to be replaced when I do it?

Will it be just the 4 bolts that hold the hub on? If that is the case, the shaft and hub will easily come off?

Rave makes it look like you can do it as a unit...

 

I am plagued by typos. I always post on my phone. It is 4 bolts. Yes, taking the hub off of the truck by removing the back bolts pulls the shaft out with it. You can just slide your other unit in and re bolt. Taking the shaft off the hub requires amazing torque and I wouldn't do that unless you have to. You would remove the wheel and expose the huge castle nut. You would want to do that before removing the hub because you wouldn't be able to hold the hub and get that nut off. Replacing the nut requires 300 ft/lbs per the RAVE.

But if you have a good unit I would just pull the hub and half shaft out and put the other one in, leaving the castle nut alone. When you take the bolts off of the hub it will slide out through the knuckle with the shaft attached. Be sure to follow the ABS line up into the bay and disconnect it. The hub and half shaft pull right out (you may have to use a mallet to get it to separate from the axle tube if the hub has been in place a long time or you have rust). Then put some grease on the spline at the end of your replacement and ooch it in to the axle tube and diff gears.

Swapping the hubs with axle shafts attached is a quick operation.

I'm sorry I do recall using an o ring when I changed my hubs but I can't recall where it went.

 

if you decide to replace the hub with a new one for $75.00.
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and put the wheel back on the ground, then use a breaker bar to remove the castle nut, the weight of the truck helps. remover the 4 bolts to the hub, use a puller to remove the hub, replace the seal and hub and put it back on the ground for tightening.

an yes there is an axle seal inside the tube that should be replaced if you are going to pull the axle.

 

No cotter pins in the D2, you have to bend a little tab back out with a screwdriver. Also be sure to set the hand brake and chock at least one of the wheels that will be on the ground because it will try to roll. Like Drow said, placing one wheel back on the ground helps a lot. You can get the socket in by removing the center cap on the rim.

 

An impact will spin the nut right off.

 

you are so right about the castle nut there is not cotter pin all you have to do is remove the center cap. senior citizen we tend to forget stuff.
it amazing how many people don't have an impact, i dont even start my compressor anymore the new cordless ones are great

 

So true, I have the big Milwaukee and the medium that run on the M18 batteries, can't say enough good things. And the new "fuel" models are brushless. I only use my compressor for the air hammer which I use to drive out the axles from the hubs. I use a pointing bit and insert in the dimple at the end of the axle.

 

Oh man I need huge cordless impact drill! I do everything the hard way.