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  #221  
Old 08-27-2018, 02:24 PM
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Just got off the phone with ARP Technical Support.

1. The Studs do not go through a water jacket so no need for the sealant, just a light coating of oil with a brush, no reason to get crazy.
2. Fine to use a 3/16" Hex Socket to set them, but do not tighten the studs.
3. With Brush put a good coating of Assembly lube on the top of the nut, 3/4 of the top of the stud, and the inside of the nut.
4. Tighten to 30, 60, 80ftlbs.. No reason to retorque.

This info is a bit different than what my research turned up last time. May be a complete reflection of my research abilities, but the directions I found online said 70. So, this time we go to 80.
 
  #222  
Old 08-27-2018, 02:50 PM
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That's basically the same info from the AB vid except they use Loctite instead of oil, and the final torque is slightly higher.
I have used the "AB method/specs" (even before they made the vid) more than a few times with ZERO ISSUES.
>>>> A QUALITY torque wrench is a huge MUST!!!

So I guess it's just do whatever works for you. You'll get it sorted.
GOOD LUCK!
> https://www.roverparts.com/resources...ne-head-studs/
 
  #223  
Old 08-27-2018, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OverRover
That's basically the same info from the AB vid except they use Loctite instead of oil, and the final torque is slightly higher.
I have used the "AB method/specs" (even before they made the vid) more than a few times with ZERO ISSUES.
>>>> A QUALITY torque wrench is a huge MUST!!!

So I guess it's just do whatever works for you. You'll get it sorted.
GOOD LUCK!
> https://www.roverparts.com/resources...ne-head-studs/
Thanks Overrover. My 1/2” drive torque wrench tested good.
 

Last edited by CollieRover; 08-27-2018 at 08:10 PM.
  #224  
Old 08-27-2018, 08:11 PM
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Got the heads back, valve seals changed, cleaned the RH side head, no charge. I think he may have taken pity on me after the torque wrench issue, and it prolly took him 15 minutes.
 
  #225  
Old 08-28-2018, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
The 3/8" Craftsmen Torque wrench was breaking unevenly. More than likely the culprit. ...

Dang...
 
  #226  
Old 08-28-2018, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
Dang...
He tested both my torque wrenches, and the new 3/8” digital was breaking really oddly at 30 50 and 70 ftlbs. The 1/2” non-digital broke consistently and decisively. The 3/8” break was weak and -5 to +5 ftlbs.

It’s possible it was simply the seals, but who knows. I feel much better this time having spoken to ARP tech support. As a shade tree mechanic that resource is invaluable, simply because there are differing opinions online.

He also told told me not to clean the pistons as I would just get carbon into the engine. Oops. I already did the LH side. Going to really turn the engine and get as much out as I can.
 
  #227  
Old 08-28-2018, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover


He tested both my torque wrenches, and the new 3/8” digital was breaking really oddly at 30 50 and 70 ftlbs. The 1/2” non-digital broke consistently and decisively. The 3/8” break was weak and -5 to +5 ftlbs.

It’s possible it was simply the seals, but who knows. I feel much better this time having spoken to ARP tech support. As a shade tree mechanic that resource is invaluable, simply because there are differing opinions online.

He also told told me not to clean the pistons as I would just get carbon into the engine. Oops. I already did the LH side. Going to really turn the engine and get as much out as I can.
Can you vacuum it out?
 
  #228  
Old 08-28-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sixpack577
Can you vacuum it out?
I will run the pistons up and down and get it all wiped out.
 
  #229  
Old 08-29-2018, 01:27 AM
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I pulled out my pistons because I wanted to blueprint the rings precisely, so they were easy to clean then (probably pointless, but made me feel better to do it).

What I should have done, but didn't, would have been to dremel the exhaust manifold ports to get better flow from the heads to the cats. That's perhaps the 2nd biggest area of Rover leaving power on the table, behind the cam, of course.
 
  #230  
Old 08-29-2018, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
I pulled out my pistons because I wanted to blueprint the rings precisely, so they were easy to clean then (probably pointless, but made me feel better to do it).

What I should have done, but didn't, would have been to dremel the exhaust manifold ports to get better flow from the heads to the cats. That's perhaps the 2nd biggest area of Rover leaving power on the table, behind the cam, of course.
I have the LH manifold off and ported a little bit more. A Dremel just doesn’t have enough power I used a Makita die grinder and a porting kit from Summit, and a bit set off Amazon. In conjunction with the Cam the engine feels much better. The exhaust manifold ports are way too small.
 

Last edited by CollieRover; 08-29-2018 at 05:18 AM.
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