ill try a second washer on the head then PT again, then swap heads.

should i go to 85 or 90 this go around?

 

I would take off one nut at a time add the washer and retorque to the original 80 that you used, just to see if it will hold a PT.
do you have any idea how much the heads were milled?

 

008 and 010 respectively. 010 was the one that had to get fixed.

 

You're not a lucky bunny on this rebuild are you.

Did they pressure test the head after welding and skimming?

I don't think any skimming would have caused any problems as .008 and .010 is a chicken sh!te amount to clean off.

 

That isn't much, but did they measure for the total accumulated amount taken off from machining that was done previous?

 

afaik the heads were never machined, but it wouldnt surprise me if they had.

 

My guy measures pre machining, then tells you what he took off and the total difference from factory.

I pulled some heads that had genuine LR head gaskets and assumed they were virgin based on the gaskets, but machinist told me they had been done already, at least once.

Good luck, bummer deal.

 

Scum bag rover decided to take it easy on me, added an arp washer to the ends of the block and torqued back to 80, the heads are barely weeping now and held 18 psi about 20 mins before it started to drop pressure. adding more washers tomorrow and maybe even firing it up!

looks like they had been reworked. i also did pull out LR HG so i never thought anything of it.

 

Hey, just use stock bolts and blow the holes out you wont have a problem. This should be sticky'd and used as part of the ARP vs. aftermarket head bolts discussion.

1. your stud bottomed and does not have enough threads for the nut to tighten against the head.

2. you didn't blow the coolant out of the holes and hydro fractured your block.

3. your block is crap / your heads are crap.

I really want to see what happened.

 

That could be a quick and easy way out , using stock headbolts.