Use this document to tighten the cylinder head bolts.

Or see the doc that I attached to this reply.

http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover/199...ghtenSpecs.pdf

Three stages.
1) Torque wrench all bolts in a pattern as described to 20 NM or 15 foot pounds.

2) Turn each bolt 90 degrees in the pattern.

3) Turn each bolt 90 degrees again in the pattern.

4) congrats you are done.

 

here is the latest on my project. I put everything together. Started the engine. No leakes. But Coolant preasure kept building up and it was the same problem.
it was going up beyond 212. When it went up to 225 I shut the engine. I did the block chemical test, result was not good. Blue turn into Yellow.
I may have to go with a replacement engine.

 

I need some help to understand this. I already bought an engine but before I started working on engine swap, I wanted to experiment. So I used BLUE DEViL. According to instructions Tstat has to be removed and system has to be flushed and pour in slowly the Blue Devil. Idel it for 50 Min. do a test run and let the engine cool and fill up the system with 50/50 cooant. It was amazing my temp went up only up to 210F. during this process. Then later when the engine is cool I replaced the Tstat, new coolant, purged out the air, the temp. climed up beyond 212 to 218f.
Could the Tsat be bad for the Temp to climb up, bec without Tstat temp never went up it maintained between 195 and 210F. Can someone enlighten me before I swap engines?

 

Consider what the Blue Devil may have done:

1. It may have sealed a small leak somewhere. Takes about a small piece of material, perhaps the size of a grain of rice.

2. The remaining material has coated the inside of the cooling system (like the brown coating from Barrs stoz leakz in the water pump photo). This is like deciding the best thing to wear on the golf course in the summer is a sweater. Reduces heat transfer for engine to coolant and coolant to radiator.

3. Some of the Blue Devil can clog up those small holes in the top of the thermostat. These take a sample of hot coolant, mix it with cold flow from bottom of radiator, and warm up stat to open. Clogged holes make it take longer to open and cycle.

4. If radiator was not brand new condition, it may have sludge and/or scale (calcium) build up in lower tubes. Add a big blue bottle of material that seals up small openings, and lower tubes can become blocked forever. As more are blocked off, effective size of radiator shrinks. You can tell if this is going on by feeling he warmed up radiator or using a non contact IR thermometer. Top to bottom temp should be within 10F for a healthy radiator, according to my indy rad guy.

5. Whenever work is done that involves the fan and belt, you have the possibility that fan was reversed or serpantine belt was mis-routed, resulting in reverse rotation. Air should not blow out front of grille.

Now you can see that radiator, if sludged, will mess with new engine as well. As another test, consider getting an 82 degree C "soft spring" stat from Justin at Lucky8. This will drop temps maybe 10 degrees or more, and perhaps allow you to run with the present engine.

 

Hi Savannah
Thank you for your input. And I appreciate bec all these information is a learning morment. I did another experiment the other day which I would like to share so I can get your feedback. I flushed the whole coolant system. This is how I did it.
1. Removed the bottom radiator hose.
2. Pump water from the garden hose into the expansion tank while engine is running
and had my ultra guage hooked up while flushing.
3. The ultra guage readings sort of made me wonder whether the water pump had issues.
4 Here are the readings.
a. During the first 15 mint it was between 107f to 135f and the water was passing
in full force. I thought the water pump was working in full effeciency.
b. in the next few minits I observed expansion tank is full and UG climbing up to 212F and the cooling fan kicking in and the temp. coming down to 107F and the water circulation begins as usual.
I experimented this sequence for about an hour. There were long periods of low temp
bet 107and 135. and there were short periods of high temp up to 212F. Could this be a possibility that my water pump is going bad and thats the reason I have tem climbing up? Another thing I cant understand is that how could the temp starts to come down
as soon as the elec. fan kicks in because all the radiator bottom hose was completly disconnected from the thermostat.

Any input is appreciated I just want to experiment as much as I can since I have a spare engine standing by for a swap.

 

I have some goodnews to share. After flushing the system as mentioned above I replaced the thermo with a 89 soft spring. It made such a big differnce.
I bled the system. Now the temparatures are steady. Neighborhood driving 197f-201f
highway 194f-201f. It never went up above 208f at ideling.
I am still experimenting and I am getting positive results so I am going to put of swaping of engines for now. My advise for anyone is if you have problems with coolant temperature change your tstat to 89 soft spring. Thanks everyone for your input.