If anybody's around...I'm at removing the runners from the plenum, all's loose, except it appears to be hanging up on the bracket for the SAI ductwork, between the runners and the firewall. I can barely see it, but it appears there are 2 screws that are holding the erunners. It's kinda springy...In any case, If I remove those screws, difficult, it will bee nearly impossible to re-install them later...
Sooo, before, I do something i do something I live to regrert, I thought i'd see if anyone could shed a bit of light on the subject. All usable input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

The springing on the phelum cover is from the metal gasket underneath it, no worries there. You will need to get up and take the two 10mm bolts out from behind the phelum cover because you can not remove it without doing so. It is a bit of a pain in the butt but you can get a long 1/4 inch extension and a few fingers back there to grab the bolt once it is loosened.

 

Hey, Dbl 0 Disco, I mannned up and did exactly that...after, I lifted the runners up as far as I could and stuffed the handle of a 2 lb maul under it to hold it up, so I could look under and back to see. In my case, and I can't tell if I have a i Disco i or II, it's a 2K, seems maybe they over lap...?1... In any case, what I saw was the bracket that holds the SAI cross over to the fuel rail assembly... & yeah, you're spot on, 1/4" drive ext, 10mm socket and "WORLAR"...( kinda like " WaLaa"...) and it came off
Looks like this Disco's been to the RODEO at least once BEFORE! The Bracket to which this bracket bolts... was NEVER tightened...hence the "springyness"...a stud was missing on each of the SAI brackets...The top end is "clean", the bottom end is COVERED w/ oil...guess I'kll be doi' the valve copver gaskets too...
You guys gotta re-assure me...that I'm doin' the "right thng" I look at the DISCO, listen to the Stereo, pop the dual sunroofs, sit back in the leather... and I like it...Then I read anout blowing the front shaft, all the rocker arm NIGHTMARE!!! Did Olds do them that way, or did LR think up shimming the posts all by themselves?!!! Flippin" IDIOTIC!!!
Also, I don't know how much a LR PS pump costs...but what a flippin" improvement over the PRESS-ON GM pulley...!!! Anybody put an LS2 in one of these yet?...and how long did the rest of the drivetrain last...
And, so, for ONLY an un-told fortune, a Dana 60 bolt in the back, a Curry Rockcrusher in the ft, lockers & discs, an AD t-case, an Allison 5 spd, stacked w/ headers and a Crane ignition...60 ft of cold rolled steel starp welded to the frame...climb a telephone pole, hit 60 in under 6 and... oh wait... the housing bubble is over...
I really do like this rig. I too an on a some what limited budget. The ft driveshaft thing is like SO WHAT! Everybody has been making "non-servicable" U_JOINTS 4ever! Go to NAPA, they have a do-dad that slips in behind the boot, fits on your grease gun and "WORLAR"!!! You're squirtin' grease into the U-JOINT...or take it out...pull the caps and shoot irt w/ the best grade of marine grease you can find...
The engine thing is a concern to me...1st of you have a 4L V8 making 188hp...the 1st gen Chevy 4.3 Vortec has 210 w/ gnarly bottom end...tho not as gnarly as the Jeep 4.0 retard tractor motor...
I'm assuming thst the root of the 4.0, is the 3.8 Olds motor...it looks awefully GMish...
Enough blabbin', all help, insight, INTUITION greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

Finally, I been lookin for the rebuilt heads ...the Rover guy...gotta link?
Thanks

 

Worked in my family's automotive machine shop while in high school and college 25 years ago, before trading in my tools for a suit and tie. Unfortunately, I got on the wrong side of the economy downturn, so it is either replace a blown head gasket (passenger's side head) on my 2004 Discovery myself or walk. I have read the Forums and downloaded the Discovery Series II Owner's Handbook. Congratulations to the posters who successfully replaced the head gaskets themselves. I would appreciate it if you could share any problems you experienced or anything out of the ordinary that I should watch out for. All advice is appreciated.

Many thanks.

 

I hope you mean the RAVE with overhaul manual and not just the owners guide. There have been a number of these recently, so you should find lots of frustration, pictures, and final positive results. About $300 for parts and $200 for machine shop service to level the head (you may still have connections). Flatness spec is .002 inch, printer paper is .0038. Don't use my cousin Bubba with his belt sander... Shops usually have 12 - 15 hours labor in the job. Most here are not that swift. But people from a wide range of backgrounds have tackled this and completed it. While taking down, when top of intake comes off, pause to do a pressure test on the PITA schrader valve for the fuel pump, it will never be easier. Oil PSI test good idea as well. Not suggesting rebuild rest of engine unless diagnostics indicate a need.

 

Plan on a SAT. to break it down and a SAT. to re-assemble...provided you don't break all those CRAPPY little, hard plastic(ABS) lines...if you do 1/4" id BLACK vinyl tubing makes a really good repair, just heat the ends up w/ a heat gun and slip over the broken end of the line, use hose clamps, on the coolant lines...
Next, take GOOD pix, if you didn't I did...I can post them if anyone needs them.
The intake runners won't come off til you:1) get a set of GEAR WRENCHES, 2): use the 10mm and remove the two nuts on the rear of the runners, can't see them for crap, holds the coil bracket...also, there's two more on each side of the lower coil bracket, virtually impossible to get to...patience here, right behind the rear of the valve cover, in the valley...
I used a piece of 3/16" masonite cut to the size of the radiator, so I could put the A/C OUT of the way down there instaed of trying to "wire" it up in front of where you'll be working...
Don't bother taking the hood off, just cut a piece of 3/4" PVC 41.75" long worked perfect for me...holds the hood up high enough to keep it out of your way.
A 30" piece of 3/4" black pipe w/ a "TEE" makes a perfect and cheap, breaker bar...the tee is where the regular 1/2" breaker bar from your socket set fits...also, in those tight places, you can use the 90degree part of the "TEE" to locate your breaker bar in an "out of the way" position, takes a bit of getting use to, but the leverage is EXACTLY the same...
Other than that LABEL everything, every nut and bolt, bracket and tube...you'll be glad you do...next,( and there mosrt likely will be a next time...if you read the posts...) you'll remember most of it...
Or, SELL the frickin thing...

 

One more thought, 1st use "nut Buster" on the SAI fittings, 2nd, after mucking around w/ them, it became really clear that they were a PIECE OF CAKE to remove, if you wait 'til everything is down...except theheads, of course, though thinking about it...then access is easy, no crow's foot, just a WRENCH works fine...
Remember to use ANTI-SEIZE on the spark plugs AND the SAI fittings, lightly oil everything else, Do NOT put oil directly into the head bolt holes in the block! oil the threads only.
Another tip, if you/re having problems w/ the valve cover gaskets falling off during re-assembly, use some HI-TACK on the cover side ONLY.
Another another, CARQUEST has the FAE( or whoever) temp sensor for $22...I had to replace mine...

 

Amend the two nuts on the rear of the intake runners...they hold they SAI plumbing...the outer two on the coil breacket itself hold the coil bracket...DUH...

 

Many thanks for the advice. I am going to try to document the process and hope I can get some good photographs to help the next guy who finds himself in a similar position, I will report back on the results.

Thanks Again