I do a lot of towing with my Disco. From a lightweight 300 pound sailing dinghy up to a 3200 pound 23 foot sailboat. The bigger boat did sag the rear of my truck a bit and it got me wondering if anybody ever tried to retrofit the european headlight adjusters? These have a switch on the dash next to the mirror controls that allow for a couple of preconfigured height adjustments at the click of a switch. I just can find very little about them.

 

you will need the European headlights. I have the switch. You can find them on ebayUK. I don't know if there is a 'control unit' for the lights..... From what I have read, most EU drivers just leave them on one setting anyway......

 

I am ahead of the game then, I actually already have the euro-code headlights. Which, btw, are a fantastic upgrade over the standard US spec lights. I did not know that a non-projector headlight could have such a sharp cutoff. I just bought the switch, now to get my hands on the actuators.

 

I found this for you to read on another web site LR4x4.com


I have a little problem with the headlight adjustment on a DiscoveryII

It is fitted with electric headlight adjustment, the type where there is a 4-position **** on the dash to set the desired headlight level.

The bottom headlamp adjuster is a little electric motor, apparently part number AMR2706

As the vehicle came to me, the headlamps were adjusted sort of ok-ish, but the wires to the electric motors were un-plugged.

I plugged them in, both the motors made a little "motor running sound" and both their adjusters were drawn into the fully-in/headlights-fully-down position. Then "the lines of communication" with these motors broke down.

Turning the **** on the dash has no effect. No fuses are blown.

But the headlights are pointed down to the ground to a degree that makes it undriveable at night.

There is a 13 mm plastic "nut" on top of the AMR2706. Turning it makes a ratchetting sound, but does not affect the level. I took it for a manually override, but perhaps it is something else?

The AMR2706 has a 3-terminal plug. What is the pinout and protocol?

I would love trying to diagnose the problem by testing the motors on the bench with an external power source. Is it eg. ground, 12V and a pulse pin like for a stepper motor, or ground and a pin to make it move one way and another pin to move the other way with the duration of time controlling how far?

Looks like it's a pretty simple system.

The red wire going to the headlamp motor is a +ve feed from fuse 11. The red wire going into the switch comes from fuse 33.

I'd start by checking fuse 33, and after that the wire from the switch's pin 2 to the headlamp motor pin 2.


Don't give direct feed to the motors cos you might burn them as they have an internal potentiometer and the

expected feed is below 12V all the pointed fuses above are good IMO the problem is within the switch:

you should remove the switch put ohmeter where the blue/pink and red/orange wires were connected(pins 2-4) and see if you get those resistances by turning the switch through all the positions but if you get open circuit once or the ame as for 0 position on all then that's the problem if you see what i mean
QuoteThe difference in the voltage output from the headlamp levelling switch and the
battery voltage is compared by a potentiometer in the LH/RH headlamp
levelling motors. When the headlamp levelling switch is moved, the differing
voltage causes the motor to operate until the potentiometer output equals the
switch output. The motors stop and set the headlamps to a position which
corresponds to the headlamp levelling switch position.
The input voltage to the headlamp levelling switch passes through the following
resistors depending on switch position as follows:
Position 0 = 120 Ohm (R5) and 390 Ohm (R6)
Position 1 = 120 Ohm (R5), 20 Ohm (R4) and 390 Ohm (R6)
Position 2 = 120 Ohm (R5), 20 Ohm (R4), 100 Ohm (R3) and 390 Ohm (R6)
Position 3 = 120 Ohm (R5), 20 Ohm (R4), 100 Ohm (R3), 75 Ohm (R2) and
390 Ohm (R6).

 

Art, I'm from south jersey!

..... and you may need the connector (and therefore all the wiring) for the harness if you have a US spec vehicle. My disco does not have the wiring or connector. You can easily get the switches. I'm having difficulty locating an OEM harness connector but I can probably find one that works. Pretty simple spade female connector.... Mine got lost in the mail from england.....

 

I will eventually wire the light switch to run something else like accessory lights. You can use the series resistors for each position and have an arduino or similar decode the input, and then run relays.....