How to fix leaking air bags for $5
I am the original guy that put in the Lucas -- it slowly was forced out over time. i replaced with about 6 oz of SLIME as per the suggestion above. The slime does what it is designed to do -- it immediately blocks up the leaks and conditions the material.
Regarding Disco Mikes suggestion that it will get sucked back up into the system -- no way. The slime is very thick, and the puddled slime is about 8-10 inches from the intake. Just make sure there is no remaining slime in the plug hole when you pu the lines back in. After I put in the slime there was a green spot for about a two days then NOTHING. CLEAN. I just carrried 16 5-gallon buckets of paint plus two passegngers this weekend for an hour over bumps, and NOTHING.
And, if you are already going to ditch the system for springs, who cares if the SLS burns out?
So if anyone wants to spend the extra $300 for the kit, it is a pretty simple swap out otherwise, just put in the slime.
Kent
Regarding Disco Mikes suggestion that it will get sucked back up into the system -- no way. The slime is very thick, and the puddled slime is about 8-10 inches from the intake. Just make sure there is no remaining slime in the plug hole when you pu the lines back in. After I put in the slime there was a green spot for about a two days then NOTHING. CLEAN. I just carrried 16 5-gallon buckets of paint plus two passegngers this weekend for an hour over bumps, and NOTHING.
And, if you are already going to ditch the system for springs, who cares if the SLS burns out?
So if anyone wants to spend the extra $300 for the kit, it is a pretty simple swap out otherwise, just put in the slime.
Kent
Just replace the airbags.
In about the same time it will take you to remove the rear wheel, undo the air line, inject the needle of slime or whatever happens here, you can literally go one more step, rotate and change the entire rear air spring. Also they are not expensive to buy.
However, get one with the proper air fitting so you don't have to futz with it (Arnott's newest ones do for D2).
In about the same time it will take you to remove the rear wheel, undo the air line, inject the needle of slime or whatever happens here, you can literally go one more step, rotate and change the entire rear air spring. Also they are not expensive to buy.
However, get one with the proper air fitting so you don't have to futz with it (Arnott's newest ones do for D2).
I agree, replace them. They’re not very expensive and will be good for another 15-20 years.
As far as Arnott springs go, my experience on my P38 wasn’t great. I actually loved the springs, but I had 2 (completely separate occasions) fail catastrophically. The crimps failed and the springs collapsed immediately. Both times I was on the pavement at an idle (not due to off road abuse). Arnott did stand behind them and replace them, but I couldn’t have that happen again. Also, their warranty outside the US is only 2 years. I replaced all 4 with new original Dunlop air springs.
As far as Arnott springs go, my experience on my P38 wasn’t great. I actually loved the springs, but I had 2 (completely separate occasions) fail catastrophically. The crimps failed and the springs collapsed immediately. Both times I was on the pavement at an idle (not due to off road abuse). Arnott did stand behind them and replace them, but I couldn’t have that happen again. Also, their warranty outside the US is only 2 years. I replaced all 4 with new original Dunlop air springs.
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