I'm going to buy one today over at Sears. Deep socket or regular work best? Also, any preference on the 27mm or 1 1/16th?

 

Regular works fine maybe even better. As for the size of socket it's a tough call, in my case the 27mm fits best. The first thing I did when I bought my truck was replace half of the lug nuts. They were deformed and required an assortment of different size sockets. I was able to tap the sockets in with a rubber mallet and they came out easier than what I thought. About the breaker bar get the longest 1/2 inch that you can get, if you use a ratchet you could end up striping the pawl on the ratchet.

 

NO! Do not get a ratchet. Get a breaker bar. Lug nuts make quick work of ratchets, especially cheap ones.

 

Done and thanks. 6 point 1 1/16th seemed to fit snug and best. I've got a decent 1/2" breaker that I will use with it as it is not something that would get much use from the tool chest anyway. Thanks! Driving her down to Philly tomorrow than from Philly to NYC Tuesday... so Murphy's Law clearly states since I actually *knew* I didn't have a tire iron I would surely get a flat tire. If I didn't check, I would have been able to drive 2 more years with no problems

 

The breaker bar with the socket on it as well as a 16oz claw hammer fit perfect under the back seat.
Thats what I carry/use.

 

The breaker and socket made quick work out of each lug nut. Went around the truck and broke each one loose, gave it a quick shot of WD40 and tightened them back up. The wheels must have been recently off as most were fairly easy. Either that, or I'm just all kinds of diesel and they were no match for the gun show

 

Yeah, yeah...the gun show.
So what shop did you take it too to have the lugs loosened again?

 

WD40 is not a lubricant. It's a water displacer with some limited lubricating properties. It doesn't even work well as a penetrating oil.

If you want to be able to take the wheels off again without problems, paint the contact area of the back of the wheel with never seize, and brush some on each stud.

I put never seize on just about every bolt I remove/reinstall unless its an area that specifically shouldn't have it (like fasteners that require thread locker).

 

I've used a few things, but prefer WD40 actually. Spray inside, spray the bolts and all good. All you need it is to displace water and prevent rust. I've learned the HARD way twice and never been screwed by WD40. Also apply it to the back of the hub. Without that, especially after a winter with tons of salt, I spent an hour with a rubber mallet knocking it off. I have had two bolts also stuck. One in the winter, and the other after a track day (more heat produced in one lap than the Rover will see in a year on those bolts!). You either go two ways at the track with the intense heat and pressure... sometimes you need to re-torque the wheels, or they get welded on there. I used a brush on anti-seize with that one that got stuck. Stuck with WD after that Here is the carnage after rounding out the punk ***...
This was my previous Audi 2.7T. Spent 2-3 hours carefully drilling it out to not damage the wheel:

 

2x on the WD40 I would replace that with antiseize, when that WD40 get hot and heats up from the heat of the rotor it will set like super glue.
Ive made the mistake in the past thinking it would make them easier to come off, it acted exactly the oposite.