If you DID fix the three amigos, what was the faulty component ?
Go buy your drive shaft for a Christmas before your fails at a cost of $3000 including a replacement tranny, when it fails.
As for the 3 amigos, some people have it show up, others don't, when it hits you loose your ABS, ETC and HD but can drive without it.
As for the 3 amigos, some people have it show up, others don't, when it hits you loose your ABS, ETC and HD but can drive without it.
Assuming you are talking about the SVS fault, probably whatever book time shows for R/R of the modulator, plus I'd guess an hour.
I did Josh's Option B fix in Feb '11. I used the same type of 2-wire connector that's in his illustrations. I tested the switches for continuity per Josh's writeup and inspected for any fluid leaks. Continuity was good and no fluid was evident. Put it back together, and 22 months/16K miles later all is good.
I seriously considered replacing the seals with the ones from Falconworks as a preventive measure, but decided to take the risk of having to take it all apart again. So far, so good.
And yes, I did buy the ABS Amigo from RSW to validate the diagnosis before I tore apart the modulator.
BTW, would a shop even consider doing the Option B bypass given the (perceived) liability?
Josh is a genius.
I seriously considered replacing the seals with the ones from Falconworks as a preventive measure, but decided to take the risk of having to take it all apart again. So far, so good.
And yes, I did buy the ABS Amigo from RSW to validate the diagnosis before I tore apart the modulator.
BTW, would a shop even consider doing the Option B bypass given the (perceived) liability?
Josh is a genius.
Had 3 amigos show up twice since I owned my 03 for about 3 weeks now. First time was after changing front brake rotor and pads. Both times they went away after restarting the truck. If it happens again I will buy the ABS Amigo to read, clear then fix the issue.
Thanks, gentlemen, keep pouring solid solutions you have come across.
Copied from somewhere in the net, am transcribing this :
...."1. Worn or non-genuine brake shoes (said to be no.1 cause in US). Rattle or squeal can apparently activate sensors. One user reported that a rattle from a loosely secured brake pipe had set his off.
2. Faulty earth connection behind n/s headlamp.
3. Failed sensor.
4. Damaged wiring.
5. Damp or dirty harness connector at hub (replacement sensors now supplied with direct connection to ecu).
6. Early SLABS ECU software. Replacement with later part no SRD500070, which has better software with a wider tolerance, may solve problem.
7. Badly seated replacement sensor. Apparently may be difficult to seat the rubber O ring correctly on the Disco II, and this can cause the sensor bracket to bend and give incorrect gap. One poster (Eight-in-a-Vee I think) suggests replacing the rubber seal with a very small amount of silicone sealer.
8. ABS modulator switches. It is possible to service the switches without replacing the modulator (LR service kit)
9. ABS modulator unit. Expensivo! Probably not economic to replace on most cars.
10. Play in bearings
11. Modulator caps recall. There was a recall to replace the modulator unit caps with thicker ones. Part no B148.
12. Unequal tyre pressures....
=====================
------> DiscoMike : Sorry, unable to read the codes after being laid off and seeing the costs involved, need to give priorities to other things.
Been studying Wabco service manuals and the possibility of reading the codes by the flashing method, but unclear if my 'ECU' Wabco 446 044 030 0 with the modulator 478 407 020 0 are candidates for such error code reading/clearing method. So far seems like a yes. My nearest Land Rover service center is 150 miles away, and cannot risk driving with the rear right wheel brake disk running way too hot, and that is if I could afford the dealership shop now.
I suspect the RR wheel inlet valve in the modulator is keeping the line somewhat pressurized.
My next to try is to run the modulator electrically disconnected and check if the RR still overheats.
Then, to re-check sensor signals while driving; With my oscilloscope on board I did monitor them as healthy. VSV switches are OK, sensor resistances and signals OK.
Thanks.
Copied from somewhere in the net, am transcribing this :
...."1. Worn or non-genuine brake shoes (said to be no.1 cause in US). Rattle or squeal can apparently activate sensors. One user reported that a rattle from a loosely secured brake pipe had set his off.
2. Faulty earth connection behind n/s headlamp.
3. Failed sensor.
4. Damaged wiring.
5. Damp or dirty harness connector at hub (replacement sensors now supplied with direct connection to ecu).
6. Early SLABS ECU software. Replacement with later part no SRD500070, which has better software with a wider tolerance, may solve problem.
7. Badly seated replacement sensor. Apparently may be difficult to seat the rubber O ring correctly on the Disco II, and this can cause the sensor bracket to bend and give incorrect gap. One poster (Eight-in-a-Vee I think) suggests replacing the rubber seal with a very small amount of silicone sealer.
8. ABS modulator switches. It is possible to service the switches without replacing the modulator (LR service kit)
9. ABS modulator unit. Expensivo! Probably not economic to replace on most cars.
10. Play in bearings
11. Modulator caps recall. There was a recall to replace the modulator unit caps with thicker ones. Part no B148.
12. Unequal tyre pressures....
=====================
------> DiscoMike : Sorry, unable to read the codes after being laid off and seeing the costs involved, need to give priorities to other things.
Been studying Wabco service manuals and the possibility of reading the codes by the flashing method, but unclear if my 'ECU' Wabco 446 044 030 0 with the modulator 478 407 020 0 are candidates for such error code reading/clearing method. So far seems like a yes. My nearest Land Rover service center is 150 miles away, and cannot risk driving with the rear right wheel brake disk running way too hot, and that is if I could afford the dealership shop now.
I suspect the RR wheel inlet valve in the modulator is keeping the line somewhat pressurized.
My next to try is to run the modulator electrically disconnected and check if the RR still overheats.
Then, to re-check sensor signals while driving; With my oscilloscope on board I did monitor them as healthy. VSV switches are OK, sensor resistances and signals OK.
Thanks.
For me, my amigos were caused by brake pad squeal from a new set of pads and rotors (corrosion on one of the rear calipers caused the pad not to sit square). Once the pads bedded and stop squealing, I reset the lights, and haven't seen them since.
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glassman66
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Apr 19, 2012 10:17 AM




