Thanks again for all th responses! Today I looked at the ground wire to the frame and found it tight but quite corroded. I took it off and cleaned the frame, bolt, and lead and put it back on. Truck started! Could this be a fluke? I am going to drive the car for a while today and then report back.

 

 

It started right up after it got warm today. I had it on for over 20 minutes and then turned it off then it started right back up. Is there a rhyme or reason to when a starter that is going bad migh show symptoms?

 

 

I've posted this here before, but 40+ years ago I had a starting problem with my first car, a '65 Mustang. It was solved by loosening the power terminal on the starter, moving it around a little to disrupt any corrosion or deposits, and tigthening it back down. Started right up. High amperage loads need good connections capable of carrying them.

Your solution is the cousin of mine. Good connections in the starter circuit are crucial.

 

Yes, the negative connection is just as important as the positive. Both must be clean and tight, at both ends of cables. A bad ground will cause a clicking sound when trying to start.

My negative cable mounts directly to the bracket below the alternator on engine, not the frame. It does have an intermediate connection to the framework/body of the vehicle right in front of the fuse box, one located by coolant reservoir, for grounding body components.

There is a small body to engine ground strap that runs from the back of the drivers side head to firewall, also. But, if your major ground wire has been relocated by someone to the frame of the vehicle...you should move it back to the engine mounting location by alternator. It's a much better ground location.

Brian.