You thought your car had a distributor. Believe me, I know what your car has and does not have.

I posted this, right before you took it to the dealer. IF YOU HAVE RPM ITS A FUEL PROBLEM.

Sorry for telling you what you actually need to know to fix your car.

 

Again thanks for the criticism. Again I followed your advice and new it was a fuel problem. However a fuel problem can be much more than just a fuel pump. Bad relay, bad fuse block, frayed wiring, and more. Since it was a brand new fuel pump it wasn't a bad decision to think it was not that piece of equipment. If you followed my thread you would have seen my comment about my inability to do much wrenching due to disabling arthritis in my hands and as well as some shrapnel in my back. I wasn't looking for how "I" could fix this issue but for information so that I could be informed to make good decisions with my local mech and the LR dealer. It only cost $112.00 for that adventure. No towing cost over and my mech's trailer to bring it back. When a dealer tells me it is the fuel pump and the KNOW it's getting power without putting a meter on the pump itself I knew it was time to stop right there. I know you are correct about a fuel issue and am not arguing that. I also know since I have a degree in HVAC that the only true way to test power to ANY device is to check at the device. There are a number of threads on the the DII about wiring issues with the fuel pump.

 

0 times out of ever has there been a problem with fuel pump wiring on a disco 2.

 

Everything works fine until it breaks. A mouse could have eaten the wire, the previous mechanic could have pulled a wire out of a connector.

Chill. I gotta side with OP here, you're being a bit condescending, or at least you haven't read the whole thread, even if he is overreacting a bit.
Everybody hug now....OK, let's move on.

I want to know what it is. It sounds to me like no power is getting to the fuel pump/sender, so I think your nothing the gas gauge is an important finding. Get that multimeter out, and kill that carpet!

 

Ok so let me start by apologizing for having a bit of thin skin here. It's not directed at anyone here I promise. It is just that this is really frustrating. Master Tech I know your trying to help and I appreciate it immensely and apologize if we got off the wrong foot. It was not intended. I agree I should not have taken it to the LR dealer but it has been awhile and I guess I needed to be reminded of why I said I wouldn't go there again last time. Again I am not much of a wrench these days although in my day I was pretty fair. I do have a huge background in troubleshooting electrical problems with my HVAC experience. It is supposed to rain here tomorrow but the first thing I am going to do is confirm I have spark and that the cps has not failed or come unconnected. Once that is confirmed (that I have spark) we will proceed to the fuel like Master Tech has pointed to. I will get to the fuel pump and see if it is a power issue or a pump issue. I know when my mech put the cps in and it ran for three days the gas gauge was working fine. After it died and I had it towed to the dealer I will be honest and say I don't know if the gauge had failed at that point or at some point at the dealer while they were doing their troubleshooting. I have checked all the fuses including the relay. No joy there. Turns over fine. Plenty of power from the battery. I was told once when installing a trailer light kit that LR have a ground issue. I found this out because I wired it according to directions and grounded it to the frame and it wouldn't work till I grounded it to the battery. Do LR's have a grounding issue just curious. My mech is a good and HONEST guy and when he was stumped and didn't want to just change parts we agreed to the dealer thing. Hopefully with your help I can give him some suggestions he might not think of. I will let you know what I find tomorrow. Again I appreciate ALL the help I have been given and again am sorry for being frustrated and having a bit of thin skin. You'd think after 25 years in the military I'd have thicker skin lol.

 

They may have unplugged the pump while diagnosing it. That would kill the gauge. Either that or they drained the fuel for some reason. Since you have spark, the next thing to do is stick a test light or multimeter on the fuel pump wire in the back of the car. If you have power, replace the pump again. If you don't have power check the roll over switch under the hood to the rear of the fuse box on the firewall.

 

oh yeah.. inertia switch ....makes perfect sense. those can even go bad and make you chase your tail. worth checking out!

 

I was with my mech when he checked the inertia switch. He unplugged it and replugged it twice. The interesting thing I did not know when it was tripped the emergency flashers went on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected and re connected. I am assuming if it went bad this time it would be flashing like it did then. Master Tech I filled the gas tank while it was on the trailer before dropping it off. It has a full tank and is still registering empty with the yellow light flashing. I will update about what I find when I get to the tank and check the pump voltage and wiring. Thanks.

 

Sorry I haven't been back to post but found out I have a rotator cuff tear that will require surgery. So the diagnosis was that once my mech and I pulled the carpet one of the wires had pulled out of the connection at the pump. Don't know how but it happened. SO the LR dealer was of course full of sh** as the pump DID NOT have power. Got a new connector, cut and soldered the wires, heat shrunk and it's good to go. Been driving it for five days and no problem at all. Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for the update! This is what I like to hear. A large part of me wants you to go back to the dealer and tell them. Not that they'd care. Of course if you call the service manager, or whoever is the boss of the advisor who was lying, and tell them you were being deceived....