Key problem
#1
04-25-2017, 07:19 PM
Key problem
I have a 2000 land rover discovery II and my key broke and I can't unlock my car..so I got a key made ...I have never had a manufacturer key just a regular metal key...well the key will not unlock and disarm the alarm..however it works in the ignition but obviously won't turn the car on because of the alarm..I'm at at a loss and no one seems to know what the heck to do..any suggestions..can I order a manufacturer key? And will it work?. Any help is appreciated
#3
04-26-2017, 09:56 AM
My original key was already broken..the remote part never worked..then someone lost the key so I used the spare key that was hard to use but worked. I locked my car door 2 days ago and when i came out from work it wouldnt unlock. I had aaa come out and open the door and i got a key made that works in the ignition but will not work to unlock the door which in turn will not disarm the alarm so the car will not turn on. Can I just disconnect the alarm somehow?I have never had this happen so I am totally baffled.
#4
04-26-2017, 10:24 AM
So does the key just turn in the lock? If so you need a new door lock pin. If it won't turn, you need a new door lock.
I dont think dis connecting the alarm is an option.
this is what I would do:
1st- remove door handle, stick large Phillips screwdriver into white plastic cross receptacle in actuator and turn in unlock direction. This will de activate the alarm and allow the vehicle to start. If you find a broken pin, replace with our new and improved pin for $25. If no broken pin:
2nd- buy a matching door lock and ignition combo set and swap out.
3rd- buy one of my improved door lock pins so in the future when using your key you won't have issues.
did I mention you should buy one of our door lock pins?
I dont think dis connecting the alarm is an option.
this is what I would do:
1st- remove door handle, stick large Phillips screwdriver into white plastic cross receptacle in actuator and turn in unlock direction. This will de activate the alarm and allow the vehicle to start. If you find a broken pin, replace with our new and improved pin for $25. If no broken pin:
2nd- buy a matching door lock and ignition combo set and swap out.
3rd- buy one of my improved door lock pins so in the future when using your key you won't have issues.
did I mention you should buy one of our door lock pins?
#6
04-26-2017, 01:10 PM
Rock Crawling
Join Date: Mar 2013
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You security system, locked door on Rover
My original key was already broken..the remote part never worked..then someone lost the key so I used the spare key that was hard to use but worked. I locked my car door 2 days ago and when i came out from work it wouldnt unlock. I had aaa come out and open the door and i got a key made that works in the ignition but will not work to unlock the door which in turn will not disarm the alarm so the car will not turn on. Can I just disconnect the alarm somehow?I have never had this happen so I am totally baffled.
So, if I understand you correctly, you never had a working remote; only the metal key part of it worked, until someone lost it. After that, you have been using a spare metal key only. Now, after you used that key to lock the doors, you cannot disarm the security, alarm, system, so obviously you can't start the Rover. DO I HAVE ALL THIS CORRECT? If so, I probably know what your problem is, and, sorry, it ain't a pretty picture, for I have been there and done that, exactly what that you have done. Let me explain: I have a lifetime of experience working in electronics, so I know a thing or two about modern automobile computer systems. After having happen to me, all that you are now experiencing, I spent many many hours trying to diagnose, and research the problem, using my Hawkeye AND Nanocom diagnosis scanners too, only to learn the following, in this order: ONE THING THAT BECAME APPARENT AND IMPORTANT, WAS THAT THE SECURITY, ALARM, SYSTEM CANNOT BE TURNED OFF; ONE CANNOT disconnect or DEFEAT IT, BELIEVE ME (it is designed to be pretty foolproof). Eventually, I came to the conclusion that the Body Control Unit, the onboard BCU computer, which is directly behind the glove box, was faulty, so I made the mistake of buying a used one, partly to try it to see if my conclusion was accurate. It was; once the used BCU was installed, I was able to shut the security system off, via the door key; was able to start and run the vehicle. I was afraid to lock the doors again, thus turning on the security system, but I knew that
eventually I would have to do exactly that, so I thought it would be far better to check it in my driveway, rather than away from home, so I did exactly that. Damn, once I turned the key to lock the doors, thus turning on the security system, I could no longer unlock the door or shut off the security system. In frustration, and anger, I had it towed to my dealer about 25 miles away. They diagnosed the problem, exactly as I hsd earlier, a bad BCU, as a matter of fact, TWO bad BCUs, my original one I took off, along with the used one I bought. Why did I not buy a new BCU to begin with? The best price I found was $500.; if bought at a dealer, ther were $1000. So, dealer charged me $1000 for a new one, and $400 to put it in; plug it in. I took my old BCU apart, studied it, and now know that they will last only a certain amount of time before they fail, especially the main integrated circuit. I STRONGLY SUSPECT THAT YOURS IS FAULTY. THEY ARE SIMPLE TO INSTALL, SIMPLY PLUG IN AND PLAY, BUT THEY DO COST AN ARM AND A LEG.
#7
04-27-2017, 12:38 AM
_______________________________________
So, if I understand you correctly, you never had a working remote; only the metal key part of it worked, until someone lost it. After that, you have been using a spare metal key only. Now, after you used that key to lock the doors, you cannot disarm the security, alarm, system, so obviously you can't start the Rover. DO I HAVE ALL THIS CORRECT? If so, I probably know what your problem is, and, sorry, it ain't a pretty picture, for I have been there and done that, exactly what that you have done. Let me explain: I have a lifetime of experience working in electronics, so I know a thing or two about modern automobile computer systems. After having happen to me, all that you are now experiencing, I spent many many hours trying to diagnose, and research the problem, using my Hawkeye AND Nanocom diagnosis scanners too, only to learn the following, in this order: ONE THING THAT BECAME APPARENT AND IMPORTANT, WAS THAT THE SECURITY, ALARM, SYSTEM CANNOT BE TURNED OFF; ONE CANNOT disconnect or DEFEAT IT, BELIEVE ME (it is designed to be pretty foolproof). Eventually, I came to the conclusion that the Body Control Unit, the onboard BCU computer, which is directly behind the glove box, was faulty, so I made the mistake of buying a used one, partly to try it to see if my conclusion was accurate. It was; once the used BCU was installed, I was able to shut the security system off, via the door key; was able to start and run the vehicle. I was afraid to lock the doors again, thus turning on the security system, but I knew that
eventually I would have to do exactly that, so I thought it would be far better to check it in my driveway, rather than away from home, so I did exactly that. Damn, once I turned the key to lock the doors, thus turning on the security system, I could no longer unlock the door or shut off the security system. In frustration, and anger, I had it towed to my dealer about 25 miles away. They diagnosed the problem, exactly as I hsd earlier, a bad BCU, as a matter of fact, TWO bad BCUs, my original one I took off, along with the used one I bought. Why did I not buy a new BCU to begin with? The best price I found was $500.; if bought at a dealer, ther were $1000. So, dealer charged me $1000 for a new one, and $400 to put it in; plug it in. I took my old BCU apart, studied it, and now know that they will last only a certain amount of time before they fail, especially the main integrated circuit. I STRONGLY SUSPECT THAT YOURS IS FAULTY. THEY ARE SIMPLE TO INSTALL, SIMPLY PLUG IN AND PLAY, BUT THEY DO COST AN ARM AND A LEG.
So, if I understand you correctly, you never had a working remote; only the metal key part of it worked, until someone lost it. After that, you have been using a spare metal key only. Now, after you used that key to lock the doors, you cannot disarm the security, alarm, system, so obviously you can't start the Rover. DO I HAVE ALL THIS CORRECT? If so, I probably know what your problem is, and, sorry, it ain't a pretty picture, for I have been there and done that, exactly what that you have done. Let me explain: I have a lifetime of experience working in electronics, so I know a thing or two about modern automobile computer systems. After having happen to me, all that you are now experiencing, I spent many many hours trying to diagnose, and research the problem, using my Hawkeye AND Nanocom diagnosis scanners too, only to learn the following, in this order: ONE THING THAT BECAME APPARENT AND IMPORTANT, WAS THAT THE SECURITY, ALARM, SYSTEM CANNOT BE TURNED OFF; ONE CANNOT disconnect or DEFEAT IT, BELIEVE ME (it is designed to be pretty foolproof). Eventually, I came to the conclusion that the Body Control Unit, the onboard BCU computer, which is directly behind the glove box, was faulty, so I made the mistake of buying a used one, partly to try it to see if my conclusion was accurate. It was; once the used BCU was installed, I was able to shut the security system off, via the door key; was able to start and run the vehicle. I was afraid to lock the doors again, thus turning on the security system, but I knew that
eventually I would have to do exactly that, so I thought it would be far better to check it in my driveway, rather than away from home, so I did exactly that. Damn, once I turned the key to lock the doors, thus turning on the security system, I could no longer unlock the door or shut off the security system. In frustration, and anger, I had it towed to my dealer about 25 miles away. They diagnosed the problem, exactly as I hsd earlier, a bad BCU, as a matter of fact, TWO bad BCUs, my original one I took off, along with the used one I bought. Why did I not buy a new BCU to begin with? The best price I found was $500.; if bought at a dealer, ther were $1000. So, dealer charged me $1000 for a new one, and $400 to put it in; plug it in. I took my old BCU apart, studied it, and now know that they will last only a certain amount of time before they fail, especially the main integrated circuit. I STRONGLY SUSPECT THAT YOURS IS FAULTY. THEY ARE SIMPLE TO INSTALL, SIMPLY PLUG IN AND PLAY, BUT THEY DO COST AN ARM AND A LEG.
Last edited by abran; 04-27-2017 at 12:43 AM.
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