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Knock Sensor Re-Wire

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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 01:02 PM
  #1  
humroot's Avatar
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Winching
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From: Charlotte, NC
Default Knock Sensor Re-Wire

Thought I would share my knock sensor debacle in hopes that it will help someone in the future.

I just finished a HG job and noticed left side knock sensor wire was crushed when last I worked on the truck. It's easy to do if you take off the PS pump housing. The wire runs from the fuel injector harness down the front of the engine. After a quick tape job, I got the P0327 code. NOTE: This code will not throw a MIL. After reading how the cable was a coaxial cable (a single wire with shielding), and you can't patch it, I went in search of a replacement. I found the perfect replacement in a guitar cable. It's a bit bigger than the original, but I had no issues installing it.

Here is what I did:

-Removed PS housing (ACC) so I could trace the old wire. I cut it where it splits from the main harness after the fuel injectors, where the wire splits for the knock sensor, and where it splits to the ECM. I left the wire in the harness, but removed it from the front of the engine since I cut both ends.
-I dropped the new wire down the front of the engine. It fits perfectly through the cable holder underneath the engine where the old wire ran. I then spliced the cable to the connector and plugged it into the knock sensor. The inside wire of the old cable is Pink/White and the shielding acts as the ground.
-I ran the new cable along the back of the engine bay with the existing wire loom and pushed it through the grommet on the right side of the truck.
-You need to splice the other end into the ECM. The ECM is located under the right side kick panel. The wires are in Connector #3 and are PIN #'s 49 (Pink/White wire) and 48 (Black). This is for the LEFT side knock sensor. For the RIGHT side the PIN #s are 36 (Pink/Black) and 35 (White).

Here is a pic of the guitar cable ready to splice in (yes, I am aware the cable is pink...it's all I could find in the house)

Ready to splice.


Hopefully if anyone else runs into this issue, you don't have spend too much to fix it. Took me about an hour, including soldering. Just run to your music store and get a guitar cable.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 11:42 PM
  #2  
sdtimb's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 80
Likes: 45
From: Oceanside, CA
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Awesome info! I have an annoying recurring P0327 code from the wiring that I need to address. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2021 | 07:55 AM
  #3  
jastutte's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 300
From: StL, MO
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Originally Posted by humroot
Thought I would share my knock sensor debacle in hopes that it will help someone in the future.

I just finished a HG job and noticed left side knock sensor wire was crushed when last I worked on the truck. It's easy to do if you take off the PS pump housing. The wire runs from the fuel injector harness down the front of the engine. After a quick tape job, I got the P0327 code. NOTE: This code will not throw a MIL. After reading how the cable was a coaxial cable (a single wire with shielding), and you can't patch it, I went in search of a replacement. I found the perfect replacement in a guitar cable. It's a bit bigger than the original, but I had no issues installing it.

Here is what I did:

-Removed PS housing (ACC) so I could trace the old wire. I cut it where it splits from the main harness after the fuel injectors, where the wire splits for the knock sensor, and where it splits to the ECM. I left the wire in the harness, but removed it from the front of the engine since I cut both ends.
-I dropped the new wire down the front of the engine. It fits perfectly through the cable holder underneath the engine where the old wire ran. I then spliced the cable to the connector and plugged it into the knock sensor. The inside wire of the old cable is Pink/White and the shielding acts as the ground.
-I ran the new cable along the back of the engine bay with the existing wire loom and pushed it through the grommet on the right side of the truck.
-You need to splice the other end into the ECM. The ECM is located under the right side kick panel. The wires are in Connector #3 and are PIN #'s 49 (Pink/White wire) and 48 (Black). This is for the LEFT side knock sensor. For the RIGHT side the PIN #s are 36 (Pink/Black) and 35 (White).

Here is a pic of the guitar cable ready to splice in (yes, I am aware the cable is pink...it's all I could find in the house)

Ready to splice.


Hopefully if anyone else runs into this issue, you don't have spend too much to fix it. Took me about an hour, including soldering. Just run to your music store and get a guitar cable.
have you noticed any change in power or fuel mileage?

i have the same issue but have lived with it for five years or so.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 03:21 PM
  #4  
humroot's Avatar
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Winching
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From: Charlotte, NC
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Originally Posted by jastutte
have you noticed any change in power or fuel mileage?

i have the same issue but have lived with it for five years or so.
Late response, I know. I've been chasing a couple gremlins in the rover so not driving much.

I do feel a positive difference in power, especially in sport mode. My gas mileage has also increased. Don't know what the average is, but my 'instant MPG' gauge is definitely reading better gas mileage. However, I also changed the cats at the same time, so I don't know which is making the most difference.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 05:07 PM
  #5  
Harvlr's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,956
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From: British Columbia Canada
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If the cats are restricted they make a huge difference.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 07:03 PM
  #6  
brivalen's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 53
Likes: 10
From: Pittsburgh
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I had the same issue, my cabke had been patched a few times and I felt like enough was enough. I spliced mine from the loom that runs along the firewall and then down by power steering and around. Pain but only an hour or two and I had to remove my ac compressor to get better access.

I found actual automotive coaxial wiring, was about $40 for 10ft shipped.
 
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