Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Looking to the future... Bobbed, chopped, and trimmed.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #61  
Old 03-15-2016, 11:32 AM
binvanna's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 675
Received 43 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

Because at lower angles, a single cardon driveshaft is stronger than a double-cardon, you're better off spending money to fix the pinion angle before spending on a fancy driveshaft. On the front, there's not enough to be done since the shaft is so short, but the rear angle can be fixed.
 
  #62  
Old 03-15-2016, 11:33 AM
Charlie_V's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Longview, Texas
Posts: 3,717
Received 245 Likes on 230 Posts
Default

Haha okay. I was trying to goad you into figuring out axles swaps and fender cutting for me. Didn't work. Darn. I'll stay tuned.

A divorce mounted transfer case with a stub axle and a panhard instead of watts linkage would sure make life easier... Awww. I can't do it with a straight face. Soldier on! I'll stay tuned.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; 03-15-2016 at 11:38 AM.
  #63  
Old 03-15-2016, 11:47 AM
binvanna's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 675
Received 43 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Charlie_V
Fascinating. What's an A Arm spacer? What's a lower link spacer?

Bill at GBR did warn me that the multi double cardan shafts were very heavy. Only after the call did I consider the implications for rotational mass. Made me think of my heavy tires, too.

On the RRC, Defender, and D1, the rear axle is located by the triangular (A-shaped) upper control arm, and the two trailing rear-links. The pinion angle is set based on the respective length (radius) of these links.

If you lengthen the lower control arms, the pinion rotates towards the ground. Shortening them rotates it upwards. You can adjust the upper link in the reverse fashion.

On the P38 and Discovery II, Land Rover used radius arms and a watts-link in the rear. To change the angle, you need radius arms with adjusted geometry or to convert to links.

It is possible to fabricate an adjustable radius arm using two rods and four rod-ends. A long rod connects the frame to the far axle mount point. A shorter rod connects the near axle mount point to a point on the long rod. With adjustable rod-ends, you could shorten or lengthen the short rod to change the pinion angle.

Perhaps a better way to fix a DII is to cut the radius arms and watts link out and install a triangulated four-link kit. This is one of Ruff Stuff's three options: 4 Link Kit Uppers Triangulated (Option 1) - RuffStuff Specialties
 
  #64  
Old 03-15-2016, 11:49 AM
binvanna's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 675
Received 43 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

I would rather spend on fixing the suspension than on a Rube Goldberg driveshaft solution.
 
  #65  
Old 03-15-2016, 12:03 PM
chubbs878's Avatar
Pro Wrench
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,387
Received 111 Likes on 104 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by binvanna
I would rather spend on fixing the suspension than on a Rube Goldberg driveshaft solution.

I googled "Rube Goldberg,"
L'nMao!
 
  #66  
Old 03-15-2016, 12:21 PM
Alex_M's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Southwestern Virginia
Posts: 4,722
Received 963 Likes on 641 Posts
Default

Bin, thanks for the info. I'd love to just use a D1 shaft, but since I'm actually making the wheelbase longer... might not work. I think it would probably come apart when I got into some crazy articulation or when I went over a bump too fast. The fact that you broke the GBR kinda reinforces my thoughts of just modifying and re-using the stock shaft.
 
  #67  
Old 03-15-2016, 12:47 PM
Charlie_V's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Longview, Texas
Posts: 3,717
Received 245 Likes on 230 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Alex_M
Bin, thanks for the info. I'd love to just use a D1 shaft, but since I'm actually making the wheelbase longer... might not work. I think it would probably come apart when I got into some crazy articulation or when I went over a bump too fast. The fact that you broke the GBR kinda reinforces my thoughts of just modifying and re-using the stock shaft.
Yeah that sounds best. I regret my purchase, again. My thoughts on the GBR axles were limited to heavy duty, greasable, yoke (instead of rotoflex), and universal parts. But mine is on road use. The thoughts I had for accommodating pinion angles and caster were infantile ones like lower radius arm brackets and/or rotating or divorce mounting the transfer case to bring the driveshafts to a more optimum angle, but what Alex is contemplating and you all are discussing is so far over my head that I'll just listen. I appreciate the explanation.

The heavier axles came to mind because I am always hoping to put a better engine in and I thought they might solve some other Alex problems (gears) at a low cost; and I have seen our axles, diffs and gears disrespected so many times here and elsewhere that I've lost count. But reusing what Alex has is the goal and aside from finding, chopping, and welding, my understanding of how to make that happen is, again, at least juvenile and probably infantile.
 
  #68  
Old 03-16-2016, 07:30 AM
Alex_M's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Southwestern Virginia
Posts: 4,722
Received 963 Likes on 641 Posts
Default

Yea, I agree that the ford axles would fix the strength issue. The gearing would be a gamble, I think a majority of the ford axles came with a higher gear than 4.10s so you might would have to buy gears anyway, and you'd still be in for lockers. Then you'd also have to buy brakes, rims, and both driveshafts would have to be modified. In the end, I really don't think it would save you that much money, especially considering the time cost you'd put into it.
 
  #69  
Old 03-21-2016, 03:58 PM
Alex_M's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Southwestern Virginia
Posts: 4,722
Received 963 Likes on 641 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Charlie_V
Haha okay. I was trying to goad you into figuring out axles swaps and fender cutting for me. Didn't work. Darn. I'll stay tuned.

A divorce mounted transfer case with a stub axle and a panhard instead of watts linkage would sure make life easier... Awww. I can't do it with a straight face. Soldier on! I'll stay tuned.
I think I missed this comment. Whoops.

Haha, the axle swap part wouldn't be too hard. You'd just have to get different driveshaft flanges and then it's a matter of cutting and welding the radius arm mounts and spring/shock mounts as well as some custom brake lines to fit the brakes on the axle. If you can weld I think you'd have no trouble.

The panhard is definitely going to happen, and I have an idea to do it on a budget. There's no way I'm going to cut out the watts just to move it back and weld it back in when doing the panhard conversion would be just as easy.

The divorce mounted transfer case... that's all you, Charlie! Haha
 
  #70  
Old 03-21-2016, 09:53 PM
Charlie_V's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Longview, Texas
Posts: 3,717
Received 245 Likes on 230 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Alex_M
I think I missed this comment. Whoops.

Haha, the axle swap part wouldn't be too hard. You'd just have to get different driveshaft flanges and then it's a matter of cutting and welding the radius arm mounts and spring/shock mounts as well as some custom brake lines to fit the brakes on the axle. If you can weld I think you'd have no trouble.

The panhard is definitely going to happen, and I have an idea to do it on a budget. There's no way I'm going to cut out the watts just to move it back and weld it back in when doing the panhard conversion would be just as easy.

The divorce mounted transfer case... that's all you, Charlie! Haha
Well, the divorce mounted transfer case has been done. I don't want to outshine anyone so I'll leave that be.

I think you are starting to see my grand plan... your chopped, bobbed, and trimmed Disco II would be a POTENT crawler and hauler with heavy Ford or Chevy axles cheaply gotten from a landfill and a REAL, AMERICAN MADE, IRON V8 ENGINE girded by some BRONCO SPRINGS and unhindered from the electronic tomfoolery that the rover gods foisted on us, as a punishment for sin and to meet emission standards, and to satisfy the American yen for a "v8" over tried and true rover solutions that were already in their stable. Little known fact, the only Defenders with 4.0/4.6's were designated for the US market. What does that tell you? Can you imagine messing with our engines in the Australian outback? In the Sahara? In VIRGINIA?! As you have seen from my posts on other threads I have been toying with some of that it and though I am an inveterate cheapskate because I want to retire someday, I somehow feel that swapping to a red-blooded American V8 would save me money (I have convinced myself of that. I have). So goad you I must, because I can only do something like this with your brain and enthusiasm working in tandem. I do have a doctorate but it is wholly useless in real endeavors. All I have is my wallet and my laptop. I will be patient.

I want your truck to to be a STATEMENT of bold ingenuity, showing forethought and strength of purpose unrivaled in the second and third industrial revolutions. There will be no need to open the hood, crawl under, or show receipts. It will be plainly evident for all to see, hear, and smell! I watched a youtube video of Russians raising a car form the ice with a rope and a stick! We can do better.

Speech over.

I have a welder but I am better at making holes, and then filling them, than joining things. But I can find someone to do it.

I think the panhard is a great idea. I am looking forward to the write up. I have a spare, stock panhard bar in my bushes waiting for me to give it a second life..
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; 03-21-2016 at 10:37 PM.


Quick Reply: Looking to the future... Bobbed, chopped, and trimmed.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:23 AM.