Looking to the future... Bobbed, chopped, and trimmed.
#41
Yep, quite large. Mine is a daily driver driver also, but I figure what the hell.
Portals would be really nice. I know of a caged disco on 37s with portals. Mean looking rig to say the least. I'm going to stick with stock axles, add some 4.11 gears at some point with either limited slips or detroits, and then upgrade to chromoly shafts whenever I break both sets of axles I have. I figure that with the 35s will be a good match and I wont have to trim too much. I'm on 3.5" right now. I may end up exchanging the rear springs since its just spacers in the back right now, but other than that and moving the axle back the only suspension change I plan to make is dropping the shock mounts and getting longer shocks. Then ill leave my swaybar setup as is (no rear, front disconnect) and I figure it should have good enough road characteristics. I'm really excited to really jump into this project.
I don't know if I've posted this in the thread yet, but obviously ill have to convert to a panhard in the rear when I move the axle back. My plan is to actually just use the front panhard off of my parts truck as well as the stock mounts. I figure that should make it strong enough and its already got the bend to clear the diff.
Portals would be really nice. I know of a caged disco on 37s with portals. Mean looking rig to say the least. I'm going to stick with stock axles, add some 4.11 gears at some point with either limited slips or detroits, and then upgrade to chromoly shafts whenever I break both sets of axles I have. I figure that with the 35s will be a good match and I wont have to trim too much. I'm on 3.5" right now. I may end up exchanging the rear springs since its just spacers in the back right now, but other than that and moving the axle back the only suspension change I plan to make is dropping the shock mounts and getting longer shocks. Then ill leave my swaybar setup as is (no rear, front disconnect) and I figure it should have good enough road characteristics. I'm really excited to really jump into this project.
I don't know if I've posted this in the thread yet, but obviously ill have to convert to a panhard in the rear when I move the axle back. My plan is to actually just use the front panhard off of my parts truck as well as the stock mounts. I figure that should make it strong enough and its already got the bend to clear the diff.
when I was talking about "daily driving" mine, I specifically mentioned Dallas which is something of a feat. I'm talking about a 30-mile round trip for my job everyday which includes no less than 1.5 hour of bumper-to-bumper traffic, hard accelerating highway access, non-stop braking, multiple traffic lights, ambient temps that are as high as 110 deg between June and Sept. I mean, just a Discos worst nightmare. When something goes out, you are probably in the middle of a 5-lane interstate or a 3-lane city avenue, and delaying the commute of thousands. Nobody around to help and waiting on a tow-truck. So, in a nutshell that's why I make sure all is mechanically sound and nothing left to chance.
That's why I can only do portals. Not only does everything remain stock, but over 50% of the stress and tension forces is relieved from the drivetrain. Instead of all power going directly to the hub, the planetary gears absorb that while reducing the drive ratio for engine output driving larger tires. You can't beat it.
Last edited by chubbs878; 01-10-2016 at 02:22 PM.
#42
That would be true with 35s on stock gears, but with the 4.11s there will be no more stress on the driveshafts than my current 32s on stock gears. That said, I could probably use a couple new u-joints either way.
I actually am currently on 3.5" lift (with no castor correction, stock shocks, and stock brake lines ). I do need to replace the shocks and I'm also going to modify my shock mounts lower pretty soon, at least the fronts since I have an extra set of towers I can cut and weld. I also talked to the guy at RTE and he's going to be helping me out with the castor correction and keeping everything safe and functional.
Ah, yea, that's different from me. We don't have any large cities very close, so my daily driving is either an hour-hour and a half o highway/interstate driving or just town driving, or some combination there of. Definitely not quite as hard as what you're talking about, but I will definitely be experiencing some of that in the future when I move to Florida after school. I do however do a good amount of pulling with trailers between 3000 and 7000 lbs. I'm going to have to add an engine oil cooler and maybe a second or a single larger transmission cooler.
I actually am currently on 3.5" lift (with no castor correction, stock shocks, and stock brake lines ). I do need to replace the shocks and I'm also going to modify my shock mounts lower pretty soon, at least the fronts since I have an extra set of towers I can cut and weld. I also talked to the guy at RTE and he's going to be helping me out with the castor correction and keeping everything safe and functional.
Ah, yea, that's different from me. We don't have any large cities very close, so my daily driving is either an hour-hour and a half o highway/interstate driving or just town driving, or some combination there of. Definitely not quite as hard as what you're talking about, but I will definitely be experiencing some of that in the future when I move to Florida after school. I do however do a good amount of pulling with trailers between 3000 and 7000 lbs. I'm going to have to add an engine oil cooler and maybe a second or a single larger transmission cooler.
#47
#48
Have you guys seen these custom Defender's before? from some of the Land Rover Defender builders who are currently the best in the market.
#49
The following 2 users liked this post by ZGPhoto:
Alex_M (02-04-2016),
WNYErikDiscoII (02-04-2016)
#50
Yea, I've seen those. They're interesting, but for making the top removable I think they would be harder to use and definitely less sturdy off road. If you bump a tree with metal it just dents, but if you bump a tree with fiberglass then there goes your panel. I also don't like that those kits shrink the rear side windows. I want to shrink the metal on either side of the windows and keep the windows themselves the same size.