I've been told that before too and batt still wouldn't hold a charge or produce enough current after a day or two to crank some engines. For the last ten years have been using an analog SnapOn load tester to check my batts. Fully charged to 12.6-12.8vdc, letting them sit for at least a couple of hours to ensure no drop and then doing the load test. lf it checks out top off the small vdc drop and install. Have seen more than one that would pass the test yet when vdc checked before first start of the day would have dropped to 12.0vdc and failed a real world check out.

Check your terminals/posts for cleanliness and being tight. Unless your D2 has seen salt you shouldn't find much wrong besides at batt or on parts that may have been replaced.

As mentioned after charging done let it rest for a couple of hours prior to putting a start load on it, check for vdc drop and each day prior to start.

Current batt in my D2 reads 12.0 vdc prior to start and needs replacing but no x,y,z, S&M or limp mode issues. About a year ago started getting the lights/limp mode and got progressively worse going for occasional to each time reverse was selected. Checked/charged batt/no help. Ended up swapping x,y,z with a used one. No more lights and was able to get into low range again. By the way if you have a means to clear codes you can clear the light/codes without doing a restart.

Obviously batt first to check but in the mean time check out you options of adjusting or R&R of switch. Good luck.
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Tomorrow I start with ground wire. I have had truck look at before. I changed 02 sencers and cat. The rover ran great. They said Trans was fine. Starting to hate m and s light. I will fix it

 

Well clean negative battery cable . Charged battery . Put it back together and no more m and s lights . Sweet. Love got to go play in the snow

 

Jeff,

How long did this take you to do?

And is the list from this post and your link to the other thread with your shopping list and finished pics all that's needed to fix up my terminals?

Your final product looks amazing and I want to upgrade mine, just don't want to be missing a needed part when I go to cutting on my cables...

 

This happens to my battery periodically. I use a trickle charger on my battery and it seems to fix it. You can also get the the lead caps to put over the terminals to make them a larger diameter. This worked for my positive terminal. My Rover is garaged and it got down to 6 degrees and I had the M&S lights come on for a day. AutoZone ran a battery test and the battery tested at 13.2 volts, if I remember right? After trickle charging it for 3 nights in a row, I returned the Blue top Optima I purchased to replace my red top Optima that is nearly 4 years old. Cold weather puts a battery through its paces