Recently, my blower quit working and I had to run 2 in line bypasses for fuses 6 and 7 to bring power back to it and had to install a new transistor to get all the speeds back. This is now working, but now another problem, possibly 2 if unrelated, have came up.

Now, neither sunroofs or the rear windows will operate. In addition, my car would not start the other day, battery was dead. I took to a shop and they ran a diagnostic and said the batter needed to be replaced and I accepted that because it is old and it just recently starting getting colder here. However, they also said that I have a draw. The machine registered 2.32A for the draw. I replaced my battery with a new one yesterday and this morning, it almost did not start and I beleive this battery was almost drained as well from the draw (the car was not started until 19 hours later)

I dont understand what could be causing the draw b/c I had not had any of these problems prior to running the in-line bypasses. Could this be due to them? Or could it possibly be a problem with the sunroofs and rear windows?

In addition, I have searched for possible problems on the forum for common issues with these and it appears it is a common problem with DI, but not DII. I have the RAVE manual, it doesnt open, but I can still access all the pdfs and I have started looking at the electrical wiring diagram, but have not dove to deep into it yet because I think I am going to need a long weekend to diagnose and fix this on my own and unfortunately, my time is limited this weekend due to work

Thank you and sorry for such a long post

 

Actually, a long post, even with what sems like extra info, is very helpful.

1. I just use the pdf files, and you can use "search" function to locate things, like a particular term or OBCDII code.

2. I like the color photos of connectors and the color wiring diagrams for the D2.

3. Your drain main well be related to the SLABS (ABS controller) not going to sleep after power down. There have been other posts about this.

4. For the short term, you'll have to put a small charger on at night if garaged, or disconnect battery lead, can't lock truck, etc.

5. I would try to pull fuse 28 inside the truck for testing. That is dedicated power to the SLABS module. Will make codes, will impact safety of driving. Page 67 - 68 of the cdlt033n.pdf file. If you hear noises under hood after power down, try removing fuse link 11 in the under hood box, or pull the ABS pump relay. Again, this is for testing only.

If it allows you to not discharge the battery, might have to do this to limp along until repairs can be made. By that I mean parking vehilce, unplugging fuse to remove drain, and re-connect before operation.

6. Of course, the drain could be other things as well. If no ampmeter available (with enough amp capacity) to measure drains, one trick is to remove battery plus wire. Connect a test light between battery and main cable. If enough current is present (and 2 amps is way more than enough), the bulb will light. This could even be a tail light bulb, etc., at that power level. Remove fuses until it goes out. Under hood box has "master" fuses and fuse links that run sub groups in the passenger compartment. So just because you pull one, don't asume it just runs one thing without checking documentation.

Electrical ghosts can be hard to track if you are a log way from that high school physics class, but they are one of the cheapest repairs on a Disco (compared to the "tick", prop shafts, and everything else that can go bump in the night). And no IBEW card required... yet.

 

I am a little more confused now. Got 2 things

1.

I borrowed a multimeter (and did a few google/you tube searches on how to use it). It appears that one of my doors must have been open when the guy checked my battery and it shown a 2.32A draw. My reasoning is that I cannot duplicate this draw. I pulled the negative cable (positive was too difficult to remove) and with the doors closed and all power off and the car had been sitting for at least 30 minutes, I could only get about 16.2 milliamps (it read 16.2 on 20m setting). Being confused, I decided to open the door to open the dome circuit and rechecked, at this I got 2.08 A (2.08 on a 10A setting). I read that 16.2mAmps is a reasonable amount of draw and should not kill a battery over night. Which confuses me?

My question, is there any other reason why my battery would be going dead. The test shown that both my alternator and starter are in good working order.

Another question is that my car started without any problem this morning and it sat for about 15 hours since the last time I started it. Would it be possible that the new battery I purchased was not fully charged and it just took my car longer to get it fully charged and that is the reasoning on why it died the first time and barely started the next. At that point, I had purchased the car the day before and it had been driven for around an hour and then sat for around 19 hours.

When I say it died the first time, the car would start up, engine would rev and then the rpm would get incredibly low and it would die. The dash lights were still on. With my old battery, on the second try, I would get 1 click and it would not even try to turn over and there would be no lights/power inside. With the new one, it starts, but the lights are dim in the beginning and then once it gets going they will brighten back to normal.

Does this sound like a fuel delivery (filter or pump) issue?

My current solution to this is to keep monitoring its start ups and check for a draw once daily to see if it comes back and if not, maybe my problem is fixed. Unless there was a short and burned out, which could lead to #2.


2.

Regarding the power sunroofs and rear windows. As previously stated, they quit working sometime after the inline bypasses were installed (same day to up to 4 days later; I didnt try them until 4 days after), but I am not sure if they are related.

I am trying to figure out what the best mode of action is to try and diagnose where the problem is. I read that the ECU is a problem with the DI, but could not find anything regarding the DII's. It still could be the reasoning for the ECU for me b/c I was working near the blower and easily could have bumped the ECU with my arm or a tool and if the connections are still weak, I possibly could have caused a connection to be broken and it may require a bypass or re-soldering. Back to my action plan, should I just start at the fuselink's in the engine compartment, if all good, go to the interior fuse box and so on? Or is it best to go the other way, meaning check for power at the window motor (which could be a pain since that would involve removing many panels and I think its most likey something a little further up the line since all four are involved) and work my way to the engine bay?

Thanks again,
Josh

If nothing else, this car is really increasing my experience and knowledge of how to diagnose and fix minor car problems. Also teaching a little more about patience, too.

 

You have made a very good point about the drain, with dome and interior lights. I actually swapped mine out for LED versions that are brighter and have less drain.

You have made a good point about the new battery not fully charged - yes, a new battery normally is not fully charged, and would require considerable time (more than an hour) of the engine running to recharge it fully. The alternator is busy supplying all the vehicle power, and is only designed to recharge the burst used by the starter. Once fully charged the alternator should keep it that way.

Lights dim = voltage low. With your voltmeter, put leads across the two big cables on the battery, truck off. Should be say 12.6 - 13.2 volts or so. Turn on head lights. Volts will drop a little. If volts drop to 10 - 11 volts, battery could have a bad cell, or a main terminal needs cleaning. Crank truck. Without lights on, alternator should keep battery at 13.8 - 14.2 volts. 15 volts is too high. When you turn on things, like lights, fan, AC, volts will drop, but should not go below 13.2. You need some capacity left to charge the battery. Alternators have reguulators and diodes inside them to make the DC volts stay at the correct level, and to convert the AC to DC. If a diode goes out, the output capacity of the alternator can drop 33%, so you can get a good test with no load, but carrying the load shows the fault.

As to idle rpm - if low, then alternator will put out less. The norm on a cold engine is for idle to start higher, then drop back top about 700 rpm as engine rapidly warms up. There are a number of sensors that have input on this, under engine management in the RAVE. The idle air control valve (IACV) does most of the control at idle, it is a stepper motor that moves in/out of a bore on the throttle body. It is basically a computer controlled vacuum leak. It can be removed and cleaned with a solavent made for the purpose, and the bore it fits in cleaned as well.

As to fuel pump, usually that can show up at higher demands. The pump, regulator, and filter are all one package in the tank. There is a schrader valve to test pressure, but on a D2 it is located under the edge of the top of the intake manifold and very hard to get to without taking off the top half of the intake.

As to sunroofs, if nothing works, attack from each end of the circuit. Check fuses first, then locate the common ground or earth point that serves all of that system. In the RAVE, that shows in small letters beside the devices, and C018 is the one. It happens to be under the right side kick panel. Water can get on it and corrode the ground connection. Oce you have power in/out of the system, you are left with individual points, and as some say, pulling the head liner.... or leave them shut. It is possible to mechanically move them shut, a hex wrench fits in the drive gear of the electric motor. This is shown in the RAVE as well. You may have to remove some devices from head liner to get at wires.