I drove thru water over my hood (thanks Harvey) without the delicate plastic drip pan although I had a fan blade/fan clutch setup.

I have always removed the PITA drip pan on 03-04 D2’s. I remember all the LR Events near Wimberley, TX from late 02 to 04 and you crossed the Blanco River to get to & from the events. I remember each year helping to clean up and we’d find 2-3 03-04 LR Drip pans sitting on the spillway or actually just sitting in the river itself... These were off of brand new loaner 03-04 D2’s. The river crossings caused em to all break.

I’ve tried the Efan setup on Jeeps/Hummers and in the end the best setup was sticking with OEM Fan Clutch/Fan Blade and adding an additional Efan to push/pull at a certain temp. Our LR’s are already setup that way pretty much with it coming on with AC after 80+ outside, and if the engine is running warm. I think a better higher airflow fan would be helpful.

It’s a gray area, but I nearly blew up my all aluminum LS3 5.3L over an Efan and I’m not gonna stress out a LR with it. I’m sure it can be done, but for me personally the OEM setup in good working condition does fine.

 

Well, not buying the Efan stuff would save me money...

 

Rain and the like won't effect the electric fan. You only have to worry about it being submersed. If that won't happen then it's no worry. For when it may be submersed I have a cut off switch inside my cab. I haven't wired it yet, but I have it installed...

That said, the factory setup works fine. I just personally prefer the electric setup. And that 1mpg is nice.

As for the plastic belly pan, I run without one. Most guys do seems like. I've heard claims that they increase gas mileage, but I've yet to test the theory. I like the easy access from underneath without, myself, but I wouldn't be opposed to a sheet of aluminum installed with 4 tek screws. I still may test the theory one day once I have some other tests completed.

 

It's factory.
Plastic guard that goes from back of oil pan to the radiator. Keeps water, mud, sticks from hitting fan or engine. Has a hole with seperate cap for oil filter access.
4 screws hold it on. Attaches to frame at 4 corners.
Supposedly helps cooling. I will do before and after with a temp gun when I put my rebuilt engine back in, to see if it actually does make it run a degree or more , or less.
Apparently, from reading here, many people take them off.
The guard also supposedly helps gas mileage.
If you drove the same long distance highway commute daily, I would think a very small gain in mpg is possible, maybe a gallon or 2 a year, lol.
Regardless, the guard goes a long way of keeping mud and water off of the fan, and out of the engine compartment.
It's never good splashing cold water on hot cast or forged aluminum.
I wouldn't doubt that splashing water can speed up the process of a block that is eventually going to develop a small crack in the block or liner. From whatever it's small, unnoticeable flaw in it's original production.
So some engines more than others.
Although there's no definative way to prove that...I just like the splash guard, and think it's a good idea.
Abran had one for sale here recently, he may still.

 

I still have it!

https://landroverforums.com/forum/pr...h-guard-87320/

 

Look forward to seeing what your results are, man.

 

Did the 00 D2's have this shield? I may have taken mine off and never put it back on...or it was already gone when I bought it.

 

The full drip pan was an 03-04 thing. 99-02 had a really small one & a slightly bigger one but nothing like the 03-04 unit.

 

Underbelly panel is the LR term but drip pan is a better description. IOW it catches leaks that may otherwise be a warning for those who keep their eyes open. LR likely installed them to keep the number of in warranty repairs down. Removing one make it easier to see what's going on with your engine.

Add to your list:
1. Bank loan.
2. A round tuit.
......

 

and
3. Lettuce spray.