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I'd check the front driveshaft. Noise seemed more prevalent when you moved camera to front area. But, could be the rubber donut joint at rear...they fail also. If both shafts check out okay, l'd be checking fluids in diffs and trasfer case, possibly pulling drain plugs and checking for foreign objects/metal materials. Could be a C/V joint also, jack it up and spin the wheels.
Put the transfer case in neutral, see if it still makes the noise. Not a typical disco sound but it does sound like something in the driveshafts. Check everything as stated above.
I'd check the front driveshaft. Noise seemed more prevalent when you moved camera to front area. But, could be the rubber donut joint at rear...they fail also. If both shafts check out okay, l'd be checking fluids in diffs and trasfer case, possibly pulling drain plugs and checking for foreign objects/metal materials. Could be a C/V joint also, jack it up and spin the wheels.
that's what I thought. Where do you guys recommend to buy a new drive shaft or can I even save this one?
Bought two of these a few years ago. One has about 40K on it and is on it's third Dll and the other has around 25K ? Greaseable, heavy duty and made in the USA.
Like anything, being sure to grease it every service/oil change or after heavy wheeling...is paramount.
Did you verify the shaft was bad yet? The noise that thing is making, l'd surely not be driving it until l found out for sure. It lets loose...and it's eating a hole in you trans and exhaust y-pipe.
Centering ball in the double cardon of drive shaft kinda sounds like..
i had similar noise in a Tom woods only a cpl months old. Took me a while to figure it out. Can you lock transfer case & remove shafts independently to confirm?
Bought two of these a few years ago. One has about 40K on it and is on it's third Dll and the other has around 25K ? Greaseable, heavy duty and made in the USA.
Like anything, being sure to grease it every service/oil change or after heavy wheeling...is paramount.
Did you verify the shaft was bad yet? The noise that thing is making, l'd surely not be driving it until l found out for sure. It lets loose...and it's eating a hole in you trans and exhaust y-pipe.
I haven't got around - it's been a bit chilly to work outside. Damn truck is too tall for the garage.
i will check it out this week when the sun is out.
Centering ball in the double cardon of drive shaft kinda sounds like..
i had similar noise in a Tom woods only a cpl months old. Took me a while to figure it out. Can you lock transfer case & remove shafts independently to confirm?
Bought two of these a few years ago. One has about 40K on it and is on it's third Dll and the other has around 25K ? Greaseable, heavy duty and made in the USA.
Can you give me more info why, I need a new drive shaft that's greasable anyways so imma pull the trigger to buy a new one.
I will check it out tomorrow what's really making noise, I'll jack all 4 wheels.
The advantage of greaseable shaft is...you can grease it every service, extending its life. This is probably more important if you do any serious off roading, have a lift, live on a dirt road, drive snowy/icy/salty conditions or live/wheel in a desert area. The cardan joint has an eggbeater affect going on as it spins. Normally, if something, a mass, is spinning, the centrifugal force throws objects away from itself. However, with the cardan joint design, the lobes of the joint assembly and design of housing work as an eggbeater and draw dust and dirt back into the joint area, especially the cardan joints inner bearing. So, if you are going to service the driveshaft regularly...because of these conditions mentioned above...get a greaseable shaft. But, if you don't see any of these conditions...or...you are not one to get underneath and drop the cardan joint end of the shaft on every service to grease inner bearing...then just buy a non-serviceable shaft and hope you get another 80K out of it.
Last edited by The Deputy; Jan 5, 2021 at 02:23 AM.