Need some feedback/opinions please on my issue
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 1,407
From: Michigan
The tan module has micro switches inside, better. Black modules use a rotating "swipe" type connection inside, not so good. But, both will work if in good condition.
Have you ever checked the codes on this thing? You can save yourself a bunch of time and money if you do. You need to check the fluid level on the trans, too.
Brian.
Have you ever checked the codes on this thing? You can save yourself a bunch of time and money if you do. You need to check the fluid level on the trans, too.
Brian.
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: TN
The tan module has micro switches inside, better. Black modules use a rotating "swipe" type connection inside, not so good. But, both will work if in good condition.
Have you ever checked the codes on this thing? You can save yourself a bunch of time and money if you do. You need to check the fluid level on the trans, too.
Brian.
Have you ever checked the codes on this thing? You can save yourself a bunch of time and money if you do. You need to check the fluid level on the trans, too.
Brian.
P1590 is an abs code
P0335 is a cranks sensor dying
P0134 is a o2 lean code.
Betting when you pull the master cylinder you find a booster full of brake fluid. Which if getting sucked into the motor could be causing some of your other issues
P0335 is a cranks sensor dying
P0134 is a o2 lean code.
Betting when you pull the master cylinder you find a booster full of brake fluid. Which if getting sucked into the motor could be causing some of your other issues
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: TN
i wish I would’ve saw this earlier bc I’m back to needing some help 😩 I replaced the whole master cylinder, and I’m still getting the spongey feeling, I wasn’t able to bleed/get air out of one back side bc the bolt is stripped, I’m currently taking vice grips to it but the other back side had very little air to bleed so I just don’t know what could be wrong I followed directions to a T. And well seeing how most my brake fluid was gone I’m not sure about being all in the booster I had someone helping me and I was under seeing which XYZ Switch I had while he did that til it came time to bleed, and I just replaced the cps so you think I got a bad one? Replaced it last summer. What do you think the abs code could mean?
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 506
From: Seattle, Wa
Not to mention that it isn't exactly easy to bleed the brakes without activating the ABS system, unless you have a Testbook.
You have spongy brakes because you aren't finished with the job...
If you don't have the Testbook you can shift to low range, on a safe road, speed up to about 20 mph, engage HDC, let the ABS slow you down... Repeat standard bleed sequence. If still spongy repeat entire process. It can take a few cycles to get it all clear of air.
You have spongy brakes because you aren't finished with the job...
If you don't have the Testbook you can shift to low range, on a safe road, speed up to about 20 mph, engage HDC, let the ABS slow you down... Repeat standard bleed sequence. If still spongy repeat entire process. It can take a few cycles to get it all clear of air.
Last edited by Dave03S; Feb 25, 2018 at 10:49 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: TN
No and I don’t know what a test book is? And yes saturnine you are correct I am replacing that whole caliper and well I’ll tell you what happened, went over the master cylinder again bc it was killing me as to why it’s back spongey etc well I told my brother we have to rebleed all again he said no I only loosened the line blah blah i said well you are gonna be the test monkey let’s go, he backs out my driveway and he loses all brakes rolls down the damn neighbors hill/yard and really is able to get brakes back before plowing into the field and next street over, he climbs back out takes it down the road comes back and says well ya have brakes now, no more spongey feeling. On to replacing that caliper and XYZ switch should be in by Wednesday. Haven’t even been able to the D2 in service enough lately to see if limp mode occurs but during one the test drives today before going through all I’ve stated above the D2 completely shut off, no limp mode nothing just completely died, was cranking over not starting thou for all of a cpl mins then she finally started. Maybe it really is that cps that I just replaced last July or then again waiting on positive battery cable repair kit to come in as well. I won’t start throwing more parts at it til I’ve replaced XYZ and fixed the positive battery cable correctly and it’s not rigged by a splicer the auto parts store gave me and said it was for my Rover 😣
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: TN
Not to mention that it isn't exactly easy to bleed the brakes without activating the ABS system, unless you have a Testbook.
You have spongy brakes because you aren't finished with the job...
If you don't have the Testbook you can shift to low range, on a safe road, speed up to about 20 mph, engage HDC, let the ABS slow you down... Repeat standard bleed sequence. If still spongy repeat entire process. It can take a few cycles to get it all clear of air.
You have spongy brakes because you aren't finished with the job...
If you don't have the Testbook you can shift to low range, on a safe road, speed up to about 20 mph, engage HDC, let the ABS slow you down... Repeat standard bleed sequence. If still spongy repeat entire process. It can take a few cycles to get it all clear of air.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 1,407
From: Michigan
HDC = Hill Decent Control
Should be a switch, just above ashtray, that looks like a rover going down hill (which most are...lol). I believe the rover has to be in low lock, while rolling down hill, when you hit the button...to get it to activate.
Question, do you have the owners manual for your rover? If so, not a bad idea to breeze through it...you'll get a few bits of information there...about the controls and terms used.
Good luck, with your repairs.
Brian.
Should be a switch, just above ashtray, that looks like a rover going down hill (which most are...lol). I believe the rover has to be in low lock, while rolling down hill, when you hit the button...to get it to activate.
Question, do you have the owners manual for your rover? If so, not a bad idea to breeze through it...you'll get a few bits of information there...about the controls and terms used.
Good luck, with your repairs.
Brian.
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 506
From: Seattle, Wa
Test Book is the proprietary computer software that Land Rover Dealers use to diagnose the computers on these trucks. It can also be used to activate or deactivate most systems. Now it isn't so proprietary as many indy Rover shops have the TestBook software too... Of course it is expensive and out of reach to us amateurs but it is also one reason to use a LR exclusive indy shop for your work if you don't do your own wrenching. They are likely to have this tool. The average "foreign and domestic" shop is not going to invest in a Land Rover specific computer.
Last edited by Dave03S; Feb 26, 2018 at 10:58 AM.
