New member w/ questions.
Wanted the Drilled, Slotted brakes for better air flow when driving downhill and heard it helped with Heat Displacement.
slotted and drilled rotors are actually worse on a rover then the regular ones. Reason is the salt rusts them out very quickly and you go from a decent ride to pulsating within a few months. Seen it with all the rovers that have them. Seen it on other cars with the same setup.
The leaks may be the sunroof drains clogged or more likely the door frames were removed and the frames were not installed properly. They should have very little gap, you should have them right up against the top of the body. look at the doors to see if they are pushed out or even if they wiggle. if the door frames wiggle then the bolts are loose as well.
The leaks may be the sunroof drains clogged or more likely the door frames were removed and the frames were not installed properly. They should have very little gap, you should have them right up against the top of the body. look at the doors to see if they are pushed out or even if they wiggle. if the door frames wiggle then the bolts are loose as well.
Yeah for sure man, I knew they had hidden agendas. Besides that, I still don't know how to or even have the tools it may need to replace the fluid. Any ideas?
the point of drilled/slotted rotors was to dissipate gasses that could build up between the pad and rotor. modern street pads do not have problems with off-gassing.
e.g.:
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: What's the difference between slotted and drilled/slotted rotors? Which rotor will be best for my application? A:
PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing.
So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications, slotted is the preferred choice. With certain pad material, slotting can help wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage; however, for street and occasional light duty track use, they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing.
So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications, slotted is the preferred choice. With certain pad material, slotting can help wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage; however, for street and occasional light duty track use, they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
All vehicles have A B C pillars, it just refers to the position on the vehicle in order from front to rear.
So the pillar to your front left, while in the drivers seat is the A pillar, behind you over your left shoulder is the B pillar, behind the PASSENGERS left shoulder is the C pillar.
Just generic automotive lingo.
So the pillar to your front left, while in the drivers seat is the A pillar, behind you over your left shoulder is the B pillar, behind the PASSENGERS left shoulder is the C pillar.
Just generic automotive lingo.
All vehicles have A B C pillars, it just refers to the position on the vehicle in order from front to rear.
So the pillar to your front left, while in the drivers seat is the A pillar, behind you over your left shoulder is the B pillar, behind the PASSENGERS left shoulder is the C pillar.
Just generic automotive lingo.
So the pillar to your front left, while in the drivers seat is the A pillar, behind you over your left shoulder is the B pillar, behind the PASSENGERS left shoulder is the C pillar.
Just generic automotive lingo.
For clarification, passenger in this case is someone in the second row seating. A pillar is in front of the front door, B pillar between front and rear doors, C pillar behind rear doors, and in our vehicles, D pillar is at the very rear behind the cargo or third row seating windows.
You can run drilled and slotted rotors with no problems just make sure the are cadium or otherwise plated, and rust will not be an issue there are some very fine D&S rotors out there.
Are they needed? that is questionable, everyone has thier opinion.
Will they hurt? defiantly not. You also want to run Akebono Euro pads, they are a ceramic pad with very long life and no dust .
I replaced both pads and rotors along with flushing the brake system and it made a world of difference in my truck. I now know it is going to stop when I need it too.
The one thing I have noticed (I dont know if it is the pads or the rotors or a combination of both) is that they cool off quickly, but it only take a minute or two to get the heat back in them once I start back out.
Are they needed? that is questionable, everyone has thier opinion.
Will they hurt? defiantly not. You also want to run Akebono Euro pads, they are a ceramic pad with very long life and no dust .
I replaced both pads and rotors along with flushing the brake system and it made a world of difference in my truck. I now know it is going to stop when I need it too.
The one thing I have noticed (I dont know if it is the pads or the rotors or a combination of both) is that they cool off quickly, but it only take a minute or two to get the heat back in them once I start back out.
Last edited by drowssap; Aug 15, 2011 at 07:27 AM.
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