no air from vents
#1
no air from vents
Hello all,
I have a 00 lr d2 was driving yesterday and air stopped blowing from the vents, upon inspection the rear is not blowing either. The a/c compressor is working but no blower fans, I have checked fuses and links and all are good. I have run the diagnostic on the dash with no codes. When I turn the air on from dash I can hear a clicking under the right side by foot well. I am at a loss as of now, only thing I have not checked is the relays since I am not sure which they are. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you,
Sheldon
I have a 00 lr d2 was driving yesterday and air stopped blowing from the vents, upon inspection the rear is not blowing either. The a/c compressor is working but no blower fans, I have checked fuses and links and all are good. I have run the diagnostic on the dash with no codes. When I turn the air on from dash I can hear a clicking under the right side by foot well. I am at a loss as of now, only thing I have not checked is the relays since I am not sure which they are. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you,
Sheldon
Last edited by noahssracer; 07-07-2017 at 05:04 PM.
#2
Maybe
Hello all,
I have a 00 lr d2 was driving yesterday and air stopped blowing from the vents, upon inspection the rear is not blowing either. The a/c compressor is working but no blower fans, I have checked fuses and links and all are good. I have run the diagnostic on the dash with no codes. When I turn the air on from dash I can hear a clicking under the right side by foot well. I am at a loss as of now, only thing I have not checked is the relays since I am not sure which they are. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you,
Sheldon
I have a 00 lr d2 was driving yesterday and air stopped blowing from the vents, upon inspection the rear is not blowing either. The a/c compressor is working but no blower fans, I have checked fuses and links and all are good. I have run the diagnostic on the dash with no codes. When I turn the air on from dash I can hear a clicking under the right side by foot well. I am at a loss as of now, only thing I have not checked is the relays since I am not sure which they are. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you,
Sheldon
#4
#6
Have at it
FULL 35MB https://discoii.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/land_rover_rave_discovery_2_workshop_manual.pdf
Electrical Circuits > https://discoii.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/d2_electricalcircuitdiagrams_2000.pdf
Electrical Library > https://discoii.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/discovery-ii-electrical-library.pdf
Last edited by OverRover; 07-08-2017 at 01:43 PM.
#8
Pull the fuseblock (unbolt at top, pull top down to see connectors on the back.
Connector C0581-check for power on brown w/ pink wire (power to fuses 6/7)
If dead, then problem is at fuse block under hood (or wiring from it).
Typically you WILL have power here, and problem is in the interior fuseblock you are working on. It is believed that a solder cracks internal to fuseblock and cannot handle the amps be pulled, gets hot and fails. Sometimes will work again after cooling off, then quits again when overloaded. Eventually dies altogether.
If power here, then either get new/used working fuseblock or bypass fuses 6/7 (typically only ones affected) by attaching an inline fuse to the wires heading out to the blowers and connecting directly to the brown w/ pink wire for power.
For the cold side wires heading to the blowers:
For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown connector with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor already attached, of which you attach a 25 amp inline fuse bypass wire. Put clip back and replace connector.
The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. You connect it to the 30 amp inline fuse bypass wire. Fix and replace the connector. Button everything up.
If you didn't have power at the brown w/ pink wire, then it's likely internal to the under hood fuseblock. Easier to run a new line from Fuselink 4(cold side) to your new inline fuses in dash.
See below :
Connector C0581-check for power on brown w/ pink wire (power to fuses 6/7)
If dead, then problem is at fuse block under hood (or wiring from it).
Typically you WILL have power here, and problem is in the interior fuseblock you are working on. It is believed that a solder cracks internal to fuseblock and cannot handle the amps be pulled, gets hot and fails. Sometimes will work again after cooling off, then quits again when overloaded. Eventually dies altogether.
If power here, then either get new/used working fuseblock or bypass fuses 6/7 (typically only ones affected) by attaching an inline fuse to the wires heading out to the blowers and connecting directly to the brown w/ pink wire for power.
For the cold side wires heading to the blowers:
For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown connector with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor already attached, of which you attach a 25 amp inline fuse bypass wire. Put clip back and replace connector.
The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. You connect it to the 30 amp inline fuse bypass wire. Fix and replace the connector. Button everything up.
If you didn't have power at the brown w/ pink wire, then it's likely internal to the under hood fuseblock. Easier to run a new line from Fuselink 4(cold side) to your new inline fuses in dash.
See below :
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