The problem is there is no fluid coming out the firewall side line of the master, only the line closest to the front of the vehicle. When the system is working properly should both lines be fluid outputs to the abs unit or is one the supply line ( closest to front of vehicle which I can bleed and has plenty of fluid) and one the return line (closest to firewall which has NO fluid at the master or abs unit)? The 4 four top lines obviously go to the 4 wheels ?
This is what I need to know to rule out a faulty Master rebuild.
It is either that ( bad seal or something) or the fluid is not being allowed through the abs unit. I don't see any other possibilities in a simple closed system.
Anyone???

 

I should have consulted the Rave earlier my bad. It clearly states, through the diagrams and info, that there should be outward pressure from the master to Both Lines. The inner line is the primary output line to the abs unit and controls the LF and RR calipers. The second line controls the Rf and LR. It is obvious now I have something awry in the primary chamber of the master cylinder. Seems every time you touch anything to fix an issue it turns into several more ....... uhg. By pulling it all apart I've obviously had something shift, move, collapse in the master. Good news is I have new $100 grommets !

 

Did you desk bleed the master cylinder before you put in all back on?

 

No, I did not and I.m sure that is a strong possibility this could be the issue. I just happened to think about that before I saw your post! I read at least 4 posts on rebuilding the master and not one mentioned to bench bleed the master when you were done. Will go buy a kit to do so in the morning and post.........It's either that or one of the inner seals or springs is malfunctioning!
Thanks for pointing that out, always something

 

I did the same damn thing... after you bench bleed it, bleed out the two tubes directly before the ABS module(the same way you would bleed brake lines, pump, loosen, etc). Then follow the bleed procedure as the RAVE follows, take it for a drive, it if feels terrible you may have to take it for a drive and either spin the wheels or slam on the brakes to engage the ABS to push and little pockets of air out, then rebleed again following the RAVE procedure. You don't have to take it to the dealer to bleed the ABS module. I had a lot of air in my ABS module and I just did donuts out in a dirt lot down the road, and then got down in the dirt and bled it some more until my brakes were good.

 

well no real success. bench bled the master and all it did was bleed fluid and air back and forth into the cylinder. bubbles come out with some fluid back into the res and then get sucked back out when the plunger springs back ( could see it through the clear plastic tube. put it back in and same thing in the car. The master must have blown a seal when I took it apart to rebuild it.........
what a friggen mess and a huge amount of time dicking with this!
I also did the Josh ABS number B fix and nothing. lights still on. I checked OHMS before , during and after and came up 3.1 so I/m assuming my wiring is good. triple checked the ground etc. I had no way to test what part of the abs system was giving me the 3 amigos but I guess it wasn't the abs unit itself? Maybe because I still have air in the system the abs unit will not function and will give u the 3 amigos???