I have a scan gauge but I like my needle gauges better .

 

We had a run on that version and got caught out of stock, they have been ordered and shipped and I expect to have them by Tuesday the 18th of June. In the meantime I will switch them to backorder status so you can order and they will ship on Tuesday when I receive them. I have seen people run the port down with the port flipped, it looks a little wonky and doesn't fit as nice. Also you can convert port down to port up with a housing change at a later date. Do you intend to run an external temp gauge?

 

Received them today (early), updated the quantities on the website - everything is back in stock and ready to order!

 

Awesome! Will order one today.

 

Is the pitting normal?

 

Yes, nothing unusual there, you should have no problems but let me know if you do.

 

Never got my silicon gasket, but so far, the paper is holding up fine.

 

Really? I guess a packed it before I had enough coffee. Send me the order # and I will get one sent to you.

 

It's a really interesting product. I'm thinking about buying. But have some questions.

1) What if you have a bigger radiator do you still need it?

2) I read engine temps under 180 F uses more gas from ECU. 170sF temps are gonna make the car think it needs to warm up to 180F? True or No ?

3) My temps are 183 203 I don't like those big swings . And it feels like the temps are higher one side of the engine. For example .. It'll be 203 F.. then I will slow down curve off the highway .. temps will go down to 183 in 1 minute. I really don't like this at all. I can't put a finger on it. Just doesn't seem right. I want a more consistent temp in the engine. Noticed when I switched to Shell Helix Synth 10-40w the temp range narrowed around 185 F. But I switched to Castrol Edge 10w 60w synth. The car has been a little .. a little weird .. ever since... -50-60 PSI oil pressure swings .. with big temp swings and bad gas mileage.

4) What about throttle body lock risk? It got 20 below F here before.

 

In my opinion, yes. The radiator is supposed to affect maximum cooling capacity/temperature. The manufacturers size radiators based on a theoretical maximum load at a maximum ambient temperature. The thermostat is supposed to control the minimum engine temperature. However the issue on the D2 is that the factory thermostat design is incredibly unreliable and on top of that it has a bypass system so that there are two modes of failure - complete and partial. Complete is actually easy, truck won't make it around the block without overheating. I have bought probably half a dozen in that condition. Partial is harder to diagnose, the truck runs hotter than it should because the bypass valve does not close all the way and allows some portion of the coolant to bypass the radiator. Owner runs around changing radiator, water pump, thermostat, etc. never quite sure what the problem is. Inline thermostat is more reliable relative to factory design for complete failure and there is no bypass valve so the partial failure is eliminated. I still have two brand new factory thermostats I am willing to send to anyone willing to pay shipping.

Not true, the D2 ECU puts the engine in closed loop fueling mode less than a minute after startup at which point the oxygen sensors control the fuel mixture at an average of 14.7:1. You can see this clearly in this video:
I did not realize 60w was even available, that is probably some of your fuel mileage issue. Anyway most people running the inline report much more consistent temps, typical between 183-190.

That is what the factory throttle body heater is for. At 20 below there is probably some risk of that happening, you might want to keep the throttlebody heater.